Beaded fruits in training workshops (diagrams and videos). The long-awaited master class. Red currant from jewelry epoxy resin Branch of red currant from beads step by step

Beaded fruits in training master classes (diagrams and video)

Spring is here, and summer is just around the corner, which so swiftly pleases us with its warmth and bright colors. With the advent of warm bright colors, you want even more. So why not charge yourself with positive and mood right now, and our master class on making bright, cheerful beadwork will help you with this.
Beaded fruits will appeal to everyone: both adults and children.
Fruits and berries are woven from beads using the technique of volumetric parallel weaving. In creating your compositions, in addition to standard size beads, you can use large beads.
Finished products can also be used as jewelry, complementing them with earrings or a chain to wear as a pendant. They will be great accessories for your mobile phone and just a stylish little thing.
We suggest you make some summer products. So, according to convenient weaving patterns and video lessons, you can choose a lot of options for compositions of fruits and berries from beads, but these two examples are the most original and especially summer ones.
In our master class, we will tell you how to make currants from beads, strawberries or wild strawberries. For clarity, use our lesson, with which you will make fruit from beads. Available weaving patterns with interesting workshops with photo and video examples will help you make juicy fruits.

Master class on weaving currants from beads

Currants can be made in two versions: red and black.

Red currant beaded
So to make such a beaded berry you will need:

beads: red, brown, green, dark;
large beads: red and green;
small beads: pink and white.
pin
Well, and of course a thread and a needle.

According to the currant beading scheme (Fig. 1. 2), you need to start by fixing the needle at the end of the auxiliary bead. Add a large green bead, which you attach to the eye of the pin and guide the needle through the bead.
Then, also following the scheme, dial 7 green beads and one red and one dark. Move the beads to the pin. Thread the needle in the opposite direction: starting from a large bead and going into three green beads. In the same way, add five red beads and one pink. Then take 7 more green beads, a pink bead and dark beads, thread the needle again in the opposite direction (from the bead to the green bead). So you have already formed the central branch of the currant. Repeat the pattern a few more times and cut the thread.
Black currant
In order to make a dark berry, take:

just like for red, green beads;
large green beads in the form of a leaf;
several large dark beads.

Similarly, as for the first option, we fix the bead at the end of the thread, then add a bead in the form of a leaf and thread it in the opposite direction (through the leaf to the bead). We press the product to the pin.
Further, the beading scheme is completely repeated, as for the red berry, only with changes for the color scheme. Complete the composition with a set of 11 green beads, a small bead that you pass through a dark-colored bead. At the end, place a leaf-shaped bead - this is the center of the composition.
Beaded currant is ready.
In addition to currants, other berries will also look spectacular, such as cherries, raspberries, strawberries.

Do-it-yourself strawberries from beads

The material for creating this berry will be:

beads of red, black, white, yellow and green;
long beads (cutting) of green color;
any material to create a voluminous berry;
wire.

This weaving pattern is very simple and perfect for beginner craftswomen.
So, let's start the master class. Beaded strawberry consists of four red rhombuses, which are woven in a parallel weaving technique, sometimes black beads can be woven in random order. When all the rhombuses are ready, connect them together with wire.
In order for the berry to be voluminous, at the end of weaving we fill it with material.

Guided by your imagination and idea of the finished look of your model, you can independently change its size (reduce or increase the size of the fragments). And also add flowers and leaves.
Making a flower is very simple, all you need to do is twist the loops on which you string white beads. Also make leaves and a cup for a flower from a green cabin.

Bright red strawberry from beads is ready.
Handmade works are always a pleasure to give, and the process itself is unusually exciting.
Get even more ideas for inspiration from the videos that skillful craftsmen are happy to offer you, and also study beaded fruits, the weaving patterns of which are presented in our article.
On this master class of beading berries from beads is over, good luck in your endeavors and enjoy your work!

Patterns of weaving fruits and berries from beads

Video: Weave strawberries from beads

Comments

Lilies of the valley from beads and beads in training workshops (video)
DIY beaded dragonfly in master classes (diagrams)

From beads and beads, you can create models of not only flowers, but also berries. In the manufacture of the model, parallel and needle weaving techniques are used.

For work you will need:

beads number 10 round shape:
20 g green;
1 g golden or silver;
20-30 beads No. 4-8 black;
about 12 m of green wire with a diameter of 0.3 ml or copper wire;
threads or paper to match the green leaves and bark of shrub branches.

Execution order.

Berries

Blackcurrant berries are carried out individually and are located on the branches in small clusters and singly. To make a berry on a wire 15-20 cm long, pick up three golden beads, connect the ends of the wire and string a large black bead on them. Then, string a green bead on one end of the wire and go into it with the second end towards, in accordance with Figure 1. Twist the ends of the wire together at a distance of several centimeters, thus making the required number of berries.

Leaves

For each sheet you need:

one piece of wire 60 cm long;
2 pieces of 40 cm and 2 pieces of 30 cm.

Currant leaves consist of three or five elements and are performed sequentially, starting from the central fragment, in accordance with Figure 2:

1-3-5-8-9-11-13-12-10-9-7-2-1

Then, on each side, they are connected by one identical fragment:

1-2-3-4-6-8-7-5-3-2-2-1-1

If the sheet consists of three fragments, then its execution ends there. If it should be of five elements, then it is necessary to attach one more fragment on one side:

1-2-3-4-4-3-2-2-1-1

Schematically, the appearance of the finished sheet is shown in the figure.

There can be any number of leaves, their number is determined by your plan.

After all the necessary components are ready, it remains only, having shown maximum imagination, to arrange the currant branches, in accordance with Figure 3 and arrange them, wrap all the stems and branches with threads of the appropriate tone. This model, depending on the size of the beads used, can serve as an element of a wall decoration for a kitchen or a summer house, as well as a brooch or part of a boutonniere.

I have been working at the school for 13 years, I started as a master of industrial training, I have been working as a technology teacher for 4 years. Once, when I went to the store, I saw a book on needlework “Flowers from Beaded”, I really liked the works presented in it. And when they offered to work as a teacher of additional education, I agreed with pleasure. Our craftswoman circle has been in existence for 3 years. We started with children with simple products. More than once participated in creative exhibitions of children's works at the district level, where they received awards.

I believe that beadwork not only develops fine motor skills of the hands, and hence the brain, but also forms the aesthetic and artistic taste of a person. I am also fond of cross-stitch, machine embroidery, patchwork, applique, origami from fabric and paper, crocheting and knitting, having such skills, I try to instill interest in children in arts and crafts. Girls and boys attend the circle with great enthusiasm and try to please their relatives and friends with handicrafts made by their own hands for every holiday.

By popular demand, she restored her master class on creating red currants from jewelry epoxy resin. Many thanks to the author! They inspired the author of the work of wonderful craftswomen Ekaterina Zverzhanskaya and Elena Grebennikova

To create currants, we need the following tools and materials:
1. Silicone mold for berries. I was made to order.
2. If you want to try making a silicone mold for berries yourself, you will need:
- liquid two-component silicone, it should be soft 10-15 shore (my husband bought me in Moscow in the SLEPOK.SU online store, silicone is called Mold Star 15, 900 gr 950 rubles, soft, 15 Shore, excellent quality, for molds for berries you need a little, I still have silicone for a bunch of molds).
- sculptural clay (sold in art stores)
- syringes with a large opening, because silicone is viscous, it is difficult to measure, (well, instead of a syringe, you can measure something else)
- glue Titanium or any viscous, such as moment
- PVA glue
- beads (the diameter of which you want berries to be or make balls from self-hardening clay)
- toothpicks
- knife
- gloves, plastic cup, wooden stick.
3. Actually, the epoxy jewelry resin itself (I bought it in Khabarovsk in an online store, it costs about 250 rubles, it is called Compound PEO-510KE-20/0, consisting of two components A and B, connected 4: 1.
- preferably a respirator for working with epoxy (sold in hardware stores, about 300 rubles)
- disposable syringes, at least three at a time, but it is better to buy more of them in different volumes (later it will become clear to you which ones are more convenient to measure the resin)
- wooden stick, gloves, plastic cup
- toothpicks, cotton swabs, vaseline
- sandpaper
- a dense transparent film (these are, for example, in boxes with sweets)
4. Dye for epoxy. In this case, I will use a paste from a red gel pen (I read that you can use dyes for soap, toner from a printer, alcohol-based permanent ink, etc.) But it's probably best to use a special dye (pigment) for epoxy resin epoxycon, sold online, I haven't tried it yet. I also look at the non-migrating Castin "Craft transparent inks, it seems to me that they are ideal, if someone has used them, please share your opinion on them.
5. Organic (non-water based) stained glass paint red, yellow, green (or blue, can be combined with yellow to make green).
6. Lacquer for epoxy products, I used acrylic glossy lacquer for plastic
7. Oil paints (a little for leaves, ponytails and seeds) grass green, white, yellow, brown
- respectively, brushes, thinner, stack, mold, scissors, tape, thin green wire, latex or pva glue
8. A little self-hardening clay with a walnut (I have samovar porcelain)
9. A candle, a pin or a knife with a thin blade, which is used for protrusions, in my opinion it is called a scalpel knife or a utility knife.

So, if you want to try to make a mold for berries yourself, then we will need the following materials and tools, I have listed them above, so I will not stop.

We take toothpicks, dip the sharp end into the pva and insert the beads into the hole. If the hole is small, try to enlarge it with an awl or sharpen a toothpick. You can use wire instead of a toothpick. The main thing is to glue the beads firmly! The beads should be even with a smooth surface so that the berry is then even and smooth (the holes can be covered with plasticine or clay so that the silicone does not flow there).

While the beads are drying, we make a sprue, I think that's what it's called. We cut out such a platform from sculptural plasticine, you must decide on the size yourself, depending on how many beads you want to place on it. I have a platform about 8cm by 5cm. Plasticine can be very hard, if it is inconvenient to work with it, then place it on the battery for a while, it will become softer. And also it becomes more plastic from the heat of the hands.
(Or try pouring silicone into an unnecessary plastic container).

The beads are stuck on. Now we cut off the excess part of the stick and leave a bead with a stem of about 1.5-2 cm.

We insert into the sprue. Pay attention - the beads are practically in contact with the sprue, so it is necessary. Do not fasten the beads very close to each other, silicone should flow freely between them.

Then it is probably necessary to spray with a special agent, it seems to be called a separator, it is probably better to use it, because. it lays down in an even layer, but I don’t have a separator, so I smear with petroleum jelly, it also leaves well, but you need to smear it with a thin, even layer, if you apply it thickly, then the silicone will not lie flat on the bead and, accordingly, the epoxy berry will then not have a smooth surface. So we coat the beads and sprue with a thin layer. I was told that it is possible not to smear Vaseline, all the same, everything goes well.

Now we are building such walls, the so-called formwork, you can probably make them from cardboard, I made them from the same sculptural plasticine, you can glue them with titanium glue or moment. The walls should fit snugly against the sprue, you can see it in the light, if there are gaps, then close them with the same plasticine.

We put on gloves. Opening silicone jars. For each jar, take a stick and stir. I have chopsticks for sushi, maybe thinner bamboo skewers.

We measure 1:1. I measured with wide bore syringes. It’s a little inconvenient, the mass is viscous, but pull the syringe in several times and everything will be filled, then let the excess liquid drain from the syringe and combine everything in a plastic cup, I have a bowl of sour cream. I don’t remember exactly, but I think it took me 10 syringes of 5 ml from each jar to make a mold. We mix well, 3-5 minutes, there should be no streaks, there is no smell, but it’s better to put on a respirator.

We pour silicone into our sprue. Here is a silicone of a beautiful turquoise hue. It is recommended to pour at one point so that the silicone is evenly poured, I poured over the entire surface. As you can see, I did not attach the walls very tightly and the silicone found a hole and leaked out, but it's not scary. We are waiting 4 hours. I know there is silicone that hardens in almost 30 minutes, I would not recommend this, it seems to me that there is no need to rush here, let the voids slowly but surely fill.
I had a few bubbles that are easily removed with a toothpick. I know when making molds from silicone, craftsmen sometimes use vacuum or compressors, I don’t know the exact name - for degassing, but this silicone is of excellent quality, it is even written in the instructions - it does not require vacuum degassing. It really sticks to it and is very soft.

4 hours have passed. To be honest, I could not resist and removed the formwork after 3 hours, and the sprue after 4 hours. Everything goes well, I forgot to smear the walls with Vaseline, but the plasticine moved away from the silicone without any problems.

So, on the left is the form that the craftswoman made to order for me, and on the left, my such clumsy form. As you can see, I’m not an expert in making molds, but I did it for the first time, the plasticine had an uneven surface, and I didn’t really try and wasn’t sure at all that something could work out, I did it for speed, not for quality . But the most important thing is that in my form the berries turn out to be just as even and neat!

The bottom part is like this.

If you poorly glued the beads to the sticks, then most likely the formwork will be removed with the sticks, but the beads will remain in the holes. It's not scary, try to turn them right in the form and find a hole in the bead, the bead turns easily, because. She had previously been lubricated with Vaseline. When you find a hole, insert a pin there, an awl, I've inserted a stack. Pry and carefully pull out, it is pulled out easily, because. silicone is soft and pliable.

Please note - such a large bead can easily pass through such a small hole. If the holes are very small, it means that the beads did not fit snugly and the silicone flowed under the bead, this is not scary, the holes can be cut in a circle with scissors.

Well, now, in fact, we proceed to the manufacture of the currant itself. I took pictures of the rest of the process before I made my mold, so the following photos show a custom mold, I'm very happy with it. Here are the tools and materials that we will need at this stage. They are all described above, so I do not stop in detail.

Put on a respirator, open the window. This is important because the resin releases harmful substances before curing.

If you had the resin with the hardener in a cool place (on mine it says to store in a dark, cool place, but I bought another resin, there it is stored at room temperature), then take it out in advance, it should heat up. Even many masters recommend the resin, that is, component A, to heat up a little. For example, put a jar with it on the battery. Or pour hot water into a plate and put a container of resin there. All this is done in order to reduce the gassing of the resin, i. if you immediately mix the cold resin with the hardener, then there will be more bubbles. I am inexperienced in this, so I did as advised.
So the resin has warmed up, put on a respirator and carefully mix component A, i.e. resin with a wooden stick.

Measure component A into a disposable syringe. I have 4:1, that is, 4 parts A resin and 1 part B hardener. (True, on the site about this compound in the parameter table they write that the ratio by mass is 4:1, and by volume 3.3:1. I got a little confused and decided to experiment, measure this and that ratio with a syringe, took 2 plastic cups and tried different ratio, and so - the resin froze in both ratios.It took me this form, if I remember correctly 20ml A and 5ml B. In short, we settled on pouring A into a clean, dry container.

Before pouring in B, i.e. hardener, we can already tint the resin at this stage. I already wrote about dyes above, my gel paste is red. It needs a little, just a few drops. I pry the gel in the rod with a toothpick and mix it into the resin with this stick. I repeat, do not overdo it with the dye, then I will show the berry that turned out when I overdyed the resin.
And now add hardener B to the tinted resin. The hardener is liquid, be careful not to splatter. Now be patient. Stir with a wooden stick well, but with slow movements so that there are fewer bubbles. Someone writes 5 minutes is enough, someone 15 minutes. I sit down, put on a respirator and stir for 15 minutes. If you do not mix well, the resin may not harden. You can imagine what will happen if the resin does not harden in these holes, such a sticky and viscous thing that even soap does not normally wash off hands. Unfortunately, such a nuisance happened to me once, either I interfered badly, or I was distracted and I mixed up the ratio. I was sure that now I would have to throw out the silicone mold for the berries. But I got over this problem and now my uniform is as good as new. The usual Vaseline and cotton swabs helped me, I need a lot of them. First, with the help of sticks, I removed the resin from the pits. And then with the same sticks smeared with Vaseline, I cleaned the pits and the surface of the form, everything was cleaned perfectly, but I had to spend the whole weekend on it, which was not very pleasant, so strictly follow the instructions and do not be distracted. Before pouring into the mold, you can practice with unnecessary containers, understand what quality your resin is and how it solidifies. Twice I bought resin from the same manufacturer, with the same instructions, it seemed to be the same, but it turned out to be different and hardened differently (one hardened after 12 hours, and the other more than 24 hours).
Now we leave this composition for an hour (they write that it is possible for 3, but I do not recommend it, it becomes thicker and more difficult to pour into the mold). This mixture must stand to degas. Bubbles that will rise up are easily removed with a toothpick.

While the mixture is standing, you can prepare future berry seeds. And it’s better to do them in advance, I made them in the evening, and in the morning I poured berries. So, I’ll immediately warn you that I don’t remember at all what kind of currant seeds, what shape and color they are. I did not find this information on the internet. Therefore, I will wait for the real currant to ripen, then I will look into it (I’ll probably be surprised how far I was from real currant). But for now, pure improvisation. I paint a little piece of clay with white oil paint. I tear off a drop and make these dumplings.

Depending on how large your berries are in shape, we make larger and smaller seeds, respectively, glue them on the pva on toothpicks. You can stick it wrong, but somehow sideways, in general, here I’m not an adviser to you, I don’t know how exactly they are located. We make as many sticks as you have berries. You can immediately glue the seeds on the green wire, then below I will explain why I first glue on a stick, and then I use the wire.

Now you need a transparent, dense film. This is found in a box of chocolates. You can take it from a plastic bottle, you just need to choose a flat surface. But I found it in my son's room in a box from under the typewriter. You need to cut rounds, smaller than a penny. As many pieces as berries. Inside, we pierce the middle with an awl, make a large hole so that it can be easily put on a toothpick. Why do we need this then you will understand. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of these circles, but below you can see them.

Our mixture of resin and hardener stood for an hour, now it can be poured. Pre-lubricate the dimples and the surface with petroleum jelly using cotton swabs. Next, take a new clean syringe with a thin hole, draw the syringe and carefully pour it into each hole. Now let it stand for 30-60 minutes. Remove any bubbles with a toothpick.
By the way, in this batch of berries, I went too far with the dye, the resin should not be so red, below I will show what it should be.

Now we insert sticks with seeds, with large seeds into large pits, with small ones into smaller pits. Do not pay attention that the sticks are unstable, then we will fix them. Do not rush to remove the excess resin that spilled out when we inserted the sticks. Let it sit for another hour. As the resin dries up, try to have a slide in the dimples of the resin, to do this, roll this spilled resin into the dimples with a toothpick.
I forgot to say that it is desirable that the resin was just such a light color, and not such a burgundy, as in the previous photo.

Now, when the pits are well filled and the resin thickens, you can fix it with the very round ones that we cut out in advance. Let me remind you that they should be put on sticks without effort, so make a bigger hole on the film (I pierce the carpet with an awl). Now you can remove the excess resin with a cotton swab, or you may not remove it, the resin, when it hardens, will very easily move away from the silicone like a film. From time to time, look at this form, correct the sticks, they should stand evenly. At first they lean, but then the resin thickens and they stand straight.
It is advisable to pour the berries on the weekend, so that in the morning, in order to monitor how the solidification is going on in the afternoon, and in the evening you can already admire the berry (but there is a resin that is better to withstand for a day, but it freezes after 12 hours).

This is a bowl with residues in which there was a mixture with resin, you don’t have to throw it away, then you can watch how the resin solidifies, touch it with a stick. Do not rush to get the berry, if it does not have time to freeze normally, then you run the risk of pulling out not round berries, but elongated sausages, because. through a small hole in the form, an unfrozen berry will stretch out strongly when it comes out. Round it will come out only in case of complete solidification!
The form with the cooling resin and this bowl must be placed somewhere far away so as not to breathe once again.
Once again I remind you of the color, it should be so translucent. Despite the fact that I tinted with red gel now the resin is yellowish, do not worry, then the berries will be tinted.

Now, while the berries are hardening, I will digress and show another resin from which I made the berries, it is not cheap, more than 600 rubles. It is already ready red, I thought that I would achieve greater transparency with such a resin.

So I mixed it 1:1, a convenient ratio, the resin is already dyed, the color is so red-orange. But the berries, in my opinion, are darkish and not as transparent as can be achieved from a colorless resin.

Here I will show unsuccessful berries. On the left, the berry is such a burgundy dark one, when you overdo it with the dye, it will no longer become transparent. Next to it is a berry with a pronounced hole, such a berry will be if you have not completely filled the holes with resin. The next berry from left to right is from the finished dyed red resin, in general, you can also make berries and the last one is the most successful (already dyed), photo without the sun, probably not very visible.

Now look, at the output you will have about the same berry as here on a toothpick, as you can see, it is rather cloudy, when compared with ready-made berries, do not be discouraged, then with the help of stained glass paint and varnish we will make it more transparent.

We continue the process. We cut off the sticks with scissors or secateurs and remove the round film. We clean the irregularities with sandpaper or a nail file. The photo is darkened and it is not very visible that there are irregularities at the base, they are easily leveled and rubbed with sandpaper or a nail file.

Now, in the place where the wand was, we make a deep hole, as if we screw it in, you can use an awl, a pin, I made a hole in the stack. Do it carefully, I was all punctured while doing it, a sharp object easily slips onto my hand. Then we cut off the green wire, dip it in glue and insert it into the berry. I have already been advised in discussions that you can immediately glue the seeds on the wire and not bathe with toothpicks. I use a toothpick, because it seems to me more convenient to clean up the bumps, that is, I cut off the toothpick and rub it well in this place, it will be more difficult with the wire, it will interfere with grouting, but you can also trim around with a nail file. Therefore, you yourself will try what is more convenient for you.

While it dries, you can make a ponytail. We add a little brown paint to the self-hardening clay, roll out a small cake in the palm of a stack, make it terry with scissors, twist it, you can grease it with glue, cut off the excess, glue it to the berry with pva glue or latex glue.

Now we light a candle (or over a stove), heat a knife with a thin blade or a pin and draw veins, remove excess blackness with a napkin. Blackness appears from the contact of metal and fire, when the candle is just starting to burn, then there is almost no blackness, and if you want darker grooves, light a new candle.
From the needle, sloppy thick grooves are obtained, probably thin blades are better.

We take stained glass paint on an organic basis (not water-based) and carefully apply paint to the berry with a brush. It is necessary to paint without streaks, because the paint is not easy, it is difficult to remove excess streaks. Another such moment - the brushes become tanned after such paint and no solvent washes. In the store, I asked how to wash the brush after such paint, and the seller said it was irreversible, just throw it away. So do not throw it away, soak in water with detergent, then wipe dry with a napkin. As this paint dries, it will all crumble, fluff the brush when it dries.
Then, at the end, the berry can be coated with a special varnish for epoxy products, sold in art stores, or you can varnish with acrylic glossy varnish for plastic. To be honest, I forgot to cover the branches and they are just painted with stained glass paint. Yellow fits perfectly on a berry, but green is very pale.
In general, I want to order other dyes that I indicated at the beginning of the work, it seems to me that the berries will be more natural with them.

Well, somehow it happened. Once again, look how cloudy it was and how bright it becomes after staining with stained glass paint (red and yellow), so, I repeat, you should not overdo it with tinting the resin, otherwise no stained glass paint will make it transparent.

Well, the usual actions when we make a leaf on any flower. We make cloves with scissors, thin the edges with a stack, you can tear the edges with a stack and make tears in the middle of the sheet, you can make the sheet slightly wavy, we mold, I don’t have a currant leaf mold, I took a universal one and an apple leaf, of course it doesn’t work very well. I’ll wait for the summer, I have a lot of silicone left, very little was spent on the mold for berries, then I’ll make different molds, including a currant leaf. We glue the green wire and dry it.

Gradually squeeze out yellow, white, brown, green oil paints. Pour a little thinner, lay out the napkin. Next, as usual, we tint. We dip lightly in the desired color, if necessary, if the paint is very dry, we dip it into a thinner, then we dip it into a napkin, I don’t really like tinting with a thinner. I like it when the brush is almost dry and clean, with a minimum of paint, we blot the excess with a napkin.

Already painted on the right, not yet on the left. I walked around the edges yellow, brown (diluted with white), darkened the torn edges, too, like traces of wilting. Blend with a clean, dry brush. (There is no need to varnish the leaves, only the berries!)

We prepare the teip tape, fold it in several layers, cut it lengthwise into two parts, we need a thin tape

We prepare berries, at first small, unripe ones will be collected.

We collect a branch, fasten it with a teip tape, without glue, you can pull it slightly.

It's time for the leaves, add it to the twig, fastening it with a teip tape.

If desired, you can roll up a twig with clay and tint it with brown or make antennae from clay. You can not twist the wire at the top berry with a teip tape, it turns out to be thick, start fastening from the next row.

So a sprig of red currant from epoxy jewelry resin is ready. Now you can put such a branch in a vase, decorate the rim or add to the composition.

And my sprigs of red currant will decorate this flower and berry panel.

Source http://stranamasterov.ru/node/609456?tid=451

In this tutorial, we will show you how to make a beautiful beaded brooch.

Materials:

8 beads 10 or 9 mm
8 beads 8 or 7 mm
large beads 8 or 9 - 24 pcs.
beads for finishing - 11p-r.
clasp for brooch, fishing line.

In principle, the beads of the outer and inner rows may well be the same size, variations with the size and shape of the beads are also possible, but then you will need to choose the size and number of beads accordingly so that everything looks harmonious.

Scheme for the product

1. From large beads (black in my case) we make a ring - we collect 16 beads on a thread and close the ring. Let's go again thread inside the ring for strength. Let's fasten the thread.

2. We make rays. To do this, we collect a large bead on the thread (in my case, red), then a smaller bead (black) and a large bead. we return to the black one, go through the red one and bring the needle into the next bead of the ring. You can immediately go through another bead of the ring with a needle (that is, we go through two at once), since the next ray will start from it. We make 8 rays.

3. We start finishing with small beads. We need to "circle" each ray with a beaded petal. At the same time, we pay attention to the fact that these “petals are interconnected. First, we collect 10 red beads and enter the black bead at the top of the beam.

We collect 10 more beads and insert the needle into the black bead at the base of the beam, while passing the needle not only through it, but also through the next 3 beads of the initial ring, so we come to the base of the next petal.

Again we collect 10 red beads, we enter the black bead at the top of the beam. Now we need to connect two petals, so we collect not 10, but 6 red beads and, counting 4 beads from the beginning of the previous petal, we enter the 4th, go through all four red beads, go out into the black one at the base of the petal, go through 3 in the same way the next, exit at the base of the next. Thus, we form all 8 petals. Here is what we ended up with:

Front side

4. Now we need to attach large beads to the tops of the red beads. We enter the red bead from below, pick up 1 large bead, go back into the red bead, go through the ring to the next red bead and repeat for all red beads.

We need these large beads in order to circle the red beads with small "petals". To do this, we enter one of the sides of the large petal made earlier, count 4 beads and remove the needle from the fourth.

We collect 3-4 small beads (depending on the size of the bead that we circle, perhaps more) and enter the black large bead.

Then we collect the same amount and insert the needle into the fourth bead from the bottom of the large petal. We lead the thread around the ring to the next petal. So we make out all 8 petals.

5. At the final stage, we will decorate the tops of large petals according to the "picot" principle.

You can start from below, you can start from above - from a large black bead at the top of the beam. If we start from the bottom, we enter from the main ring into a large petal, count 6 beads, we will make the first “picot” from the sixth. from the seventh, we will make the next “picot” from it. We are already gathering 2 beads, because we already have the third one - from the previous “picot”. So we do this to a large black bead, make a “picot” from it and then symmetrically create as many the same "picot" on the other side of the petal.