Why do tomato leaves dry out: the main reasons. Why tomatoes turn yellow and dry Why do tomatoes dry and what to do

What should a gardener pay attention to if a tomato leaves curl in a greenhouse? Firstly, for watering. The first reason why tomato leaves wither in a greenhouse is excessive or insufficient watering.

  • Young, newly transplanted seedlings need to be watered a little every morning.
  • Adult plants are watered much less frequently - once a week during the growth and flowering period and twice when the plant bears fruit. Watering should be plentiful, since the roots of the plants go deep into the ground. It is worth pouring 3-5 liters of water under each bush.
  • All leaves should remain dry when watered. Moisture getting on the green part of the plant leads to the appearance of mold and mildew, the development of diseases and the death of the entire crop.

    The second reason why leaves wither is the high temperature in the greenhouse. Despite the fact that tomatoes love warmth, raising the temperature in the greenhouse to more than 35 degrees Celsius is detrimental to them and leads to tomato leaves curling and turning yellow. Still high temperatures contribute to the development of harmful microflora and the appearance of pests. To avoid unpleasant consequences, the greenhouse must be ventilated in a timely manner, and in the hottest weather it is better to remove the film altogether. But in this case, it is better to cover the tomato plants with foil or a light cloth that will reflect light.

    But even high temperature in a greenhouse is not as destructive for plants as lack of light. This problem is especially relevant in polycarbonate greenhouses: condensation accumulates on their walls, which does not transmit sunlight well. To avoid this cause of leaf curling, you need to ventilate the greenhouse more often. In addition, in northern latitudes, summer ends early and daylight hours are short, so many summer residents install panels that capture and reflect light, and hang lamps in the greenhouse that supply the plants with the ultraviolet they need.

    Is it more dangerous to have too much or not enough nutrients?

    • For example, excess nitrogen in the soil leads to intensive green growth and flower fall. To cope with excess nitrogen in the soil, plants should be watered and sprayed with ash or potassium fertilizers. A lack of nitrogen in the soil is also dangerous: this causes tomato leaves to curl and wither in a greenhouse, and the plant dies.
    • Potassium deficiency is common, especially in potted seedlings and bushes that have just been transplanted into a greenhouse. At the same time, the tomato leaf looks yellow and withered at the edge, at the very tip, and if the soil is not fertilized in time, the entire leaf will turn yellow.
    • Magnesium deficiency can cause leaves to wilt. In this case, the bushes may first turn yellow and then acquire a reddish tint.
    • And a deficiency, like an excess of any mineral, can be detrimental to a plant.

      Often the reason why tomato leaves dry is damage to the plant. This may be improper pinching and pinching, when an inexperienced gardener cuts off too many leaves at one time or leaves an uneven cut that becomes infected. As a rule, tomatoes without leaves are more easily infected with unpleasant diseases such as late blight. Damage to the root system leads to the fact that the plant cannot absorb water and nutrients from the soil, and begins to bear fruit later than others.

      Often gardeners, looking at half-dead beds, wonder why the leaves are withering. And the answer is simple - tomatoes are sick.

    • For example, plants are often affected by the tobacco mosaic virus, which first infects the leaves and then the fruits.
    • An equally serious disease is late blight, from which the leaves of tomatoes in a greenhouse begin to turn yellow and wither.
    • Fusarium wilt typically covers greens with a light coating and can cause curling.
    • Curly virus. One of the most unpleasant diseases, which, moreover, has no cure. All that can be done is to remove and burn diseased bushes and disinfect tools. The virus is carried by insects and survives on tools.

    To get rid of diseases, it is necessary to observe the temperature regime, properly water and plant the plants, and feed the tomatoes in a timely manner. And in case of illness, use proven medications. Sick plants are immediately removed from the greenhouse and destroyed to prevent infection of healthy bushes.

    The first cause of all diseases is the weakened immunity of the tomato plant. Healthy tomatoes, as a rule, successfully fight viruses and bacteria, and gardeners do not have a question about why the leaves of a tomato curl in a greenhouse or open ground.

    Equally unpleasant causes of curling are damage to the greenhouse by insects. To determine which pests attacked the seedlings, you need to carefully examine the leaves, especially on the back side.

    • Aphids are small black insects that hide in folds. They not only suck the sap from the bush, but also inject a substance that causes deformation of the plant. When fighting aphids, it is better to spray the entire greenhouse with an insecticide.
    • Whiteflies are small white insects that live in huge colonies. An adult develops from an egg in 15-20 days, and their larvae not only eat the greens of almost any crop, but also very quickly become invulnerable to insecticides. In addition, their waste products are perfect for the growth of fungus. During the winter, these insects burrow into the ground, so for prevention it is recommended to either change the soil, or dig it deeply and loosen it before the onset of cold weather.
    • Spider mites love dry grass. Often, inaccurate mulching leads to the fact that tomato bushes are also affected by this pest. These insects live on the lower leaves, and they infect a healthy plant in just 1-2 weeks. The pest is very tenacious and folk remedies do not help in the fight against it, so you need to purchase a special insecticide in the store, which is used to spray the entire greenhouse.

    There are many answers to the question of why leaves wither. Before doing anything, you need to analyze the reasons for the deformation of the leaves, check how often watering and fertilizing is done, whether the tomatoes have enough light and whether it is too hot in the greenhouse. Often at this stage it is possible to make the necessary changes and save the harvest.

Kira Stoletova

Often, gardeners when growing tomatoes are faced with the problem of dried tomato foliage. There may be several reasons why leaves on tomatoes dry out, and different measures are taken for each case.

Damage to the root system

One of the reasons why tomato leaves dry out (especially if the edges of the lower leaves and the lower part of the trunk turn yellow and subsequently dry out, and other parts of the plant, including the top, look quite healthy and strong in appearance) is often damage to the root system of the tomato bush.

Fighting methods

In this case, what needs to be done initially is to pay attention to the process of loosening the soil and weeding the tomato bushes after planting in a greenhouse or open bed, taking special precautions. The need to be careful when working in a garden bed is due to the fact that the tomato crop has a main central root of sufficient length, from which many small roots branch off that feed the plant. The entire shallow-root system of a tomato is located quite close to the surface of the earth, its main task is to absorb moisture. From a great depth, this task is assigned to the main root, and from a shallow distance, small roots deliver moisture to the plant. Therefore, if the branched system is damaged in some of its areas, at the bottom or at the top, the tomato bush is left without nutrition and immediately reacts to this: the leaves of the tomato bushes turn yellow and dry out.

Insufficient watering

Lack of drinking is another reason why tomato leaves dry out and fall off. With a lack of incoming moisture, tomato bushes begin to wilt in the first days, losing the elasticity of the foliage and stem, then the leaves curl, then change color to yellow and subsequently dry out and turn black.

Fighting methods

Most often, the leaves of tomatoes dry out due to insufficient watering, when gardeners water young seedlings at small intervals, very often, but in small volumes, and then begin to do this in smaller quantities or stop doing it altogether. Frequent watering leads to the fact that the bark system of the tomato bush, which does not extract liquid, begins to grow superficially, without going to depth, as a result of which the plant, accustomed to passive drinking, begins to experience a liquid deficit when watering is reduced, and the root system does not allow it to extract water at depth.

Failure of the plant to receive the required amount of moisture may be due to damage to the central root during transplantation of seedlings into open soil. It is he who extracts the main amount of liquid from the soil layer for the entire tomato bush.

When the leaves of tomatoes dry out due to insufficient water, it is possible to revive the wilted tomato tops while the leaves are still wet, perhaps by pouring a significant amount of liquid onto them. Subsequently, to prevent the tops from drying out and yellow spots appearing, it is necessary to saturate the plant with water until the end of the vegetative stage and the fruiting period of the tomatoes.

Insufficient complementary feeding

With a lack of nutrition, the foliage of tomato bushes initially turns yellow and then turns red in spots. The leaves on the tomatoes curl and dry out. This process covers the entire tomato bush as a whole, and not its individual parts.

Fighting methods

In the process of full growth and development of a tomato crop, a lot of mineral elements are required in order to increase the green mass, produce ovaries in time and form fruits in the future, for which the soil must necessarily contain the required amount of the main mineral components:

  • calcium,
  • nitrogen,
  • phosphorus,
  • magnesium.

All these components can be found in balanced mineral complexes, which are added when feeding tomatoes exclusively by the root method after the watering procedure or after rain. A good way to feed tomato bushes is to add rotted compost or manure to the soil before planting seedlings. This natural organic matter saturates the soil layer with the nitrogen component. With proper feeding, the leaves on the tomatoes stop drying.

Insufficient lighting

With insufficient light supply to tomato bushes, the foliage begins to shrink, lose its elasticity and firmness, yellow spots appear, the leaves dry out first at the tips, then completely, and as a result fall off. At the same time, the side branches of the tomatoes from the stem grow in length and become thinner at the top. The stage of formation of inflorescences in the plant begins to slow down or does not begin at all.

Fighting methods

Coping with the situation in this case is quite easy: you just need to eliminate the cause of the lack of lighting:

  • if tomatoes are grown in a greenhouse, light can be added by placing additional artificial sources,
  • if tomato bushes are planted in an insufficiently lit area in an open garden bed, you can remove closely spaced bushes and trees that block sunlight,
  • if it is impossible to create conditions for additional lighting by cutting down on unprotected ground, some resort to little tricks by installing reflective panels made of plywood sheets and covered with foil, or use mirror surfaces and foil insulation.

Hypothermia

When exposed to cold conditions that are unacceptable for tomatoes, the plants begin to slow down their growth. In the absence of primary signs of oppression, the foliage becomes completely yellow with a blue border. The stem takes on a violet or purple hue. Without taking timely measures, the leaves of the tomato bush dry out over time.

Why do tomato leaves turn yellow and dry? What to do? But now we will tell you the most common causes and ways to solve problems. We won’t write about late blight, because almost everyone knows this terrible enemy by sight. About the heat and natural aging too, it’s already understandable. There are other points, and we’ll talk about them.

Tomatoes are perhaps the most favorite vegetables of most gardeners. Some even manage to grow them on the windowsill. It’s all the more scary to see how tomatoes that were vigorous and green yesterday are now standing with yellowed leaves. Let's not rant for too long, let's get down to salvation.

Root damage

Signs. Only the lower leaves turn yellow and then dry out. The plant looks vigorous, there are no other suspicious signs of depression.

What to do. Swing the hoe or flat cutter more quietly. Many people know that the tomato has a long central root. It is needed to extract moisture from great depths in dry weather. And almost everyone forgets that the plant also has an extensive system of small feeding roots. It is located very close to the soil surface. When loosening or weeding, gardeners heartily stir up the soil around the stem. And then they are surprised at the yellowing of the leaves.

Be careful, comrades. You need to loosen the soil very carefully. It’s better to cover it with mulch and not disturb it again. As soon as the damaged roots grow back, the tomato will recover. The leaves will have to be torn off; they will no longer turn green.

Lack of moisture

Signs. The foliage first withers and loses turgor. Then it curls, turns yellow and dries out.

What to do. At this point, you will most likely have to soak the tomatoes with a significant amount of water. And then constantly water the plant until the end of the growing season or fruiting period.

Why did it happen? And it all started with seedlings. In this case, you yourself are to blame. Read and remember:

  1. When picking or planting in open ground, you 100% pinched the long central root.
  2. After this procedure, the plant began to actively grow its superficial root system.
  3. You watered young plants often and little by little.
  4. Then they began to water the tomatoes less or stopped altogether.

Tomatoes should not be watered often, but it is better not to water them at all. Otherwise, plants get used to freebies and are too lazy to look for water on their own. Why, if the owner brings it every day? The roots spread very close to the surface and do not want to go down.

And then you stop feeding the tomatoes. They are sorely lacking moisture, the leaves turn yellow and dry out. This season you will have to water off the harvest until the end. They spoiled their plants themselves. Next year, take into account the mistakes.

Lack of nutrition

Signs. First, the very tips of the leaves turn yellow, then turn red. Then the entire leaf blade curls and dries out. The lesion is noticeable throughout the entire plant.

What to do. Feed your tomatoes correctly. After all, in order to grow such an amount of green mass, and even produce fruit, you will have to get a considerable amount of microelements from somewhere. There is no doubt that adding well-rotted manure or fully matured compost to the soil before planting partially solves the problem. There will definitely not be a nitrogen deficiency.

Or are you against chemical fertilizers on your site? Then tell us, the inexperienced, how do you compensate for the deficiency of calcium, magnesium, boron, and phosphorus in your tomatoes? Just don’t talk about potassium now. Everyone has long known that good wood ash is full of it. Tell us about other elements. Where do you get it from, how do you apply it, in what dosage.

Everyone else, meanwhile, is cheerfully rustling in their bins with bags and ampoules of mineral fertilizers. They read the packaging and go to save their tomatoes from yellowing leaves and subsequent drying. The instructions are followed and the dosage is not exceeded. Fertilizing is applied strictly at the root and only after watering or rain.

And their tomatoes are doing great.

Fusarium

Signs. The leaves become lighter from the central vein. Then they turn yellow, dry out and fall off on their own. The disease begins from below and gradually creeps to the top of the head. If you leave things to chance, the tomato will quickly die, simultaneously infecting all nearby neighbors.

What to do. Stop leafing through your grandmother’s reference books and look on the Internet for treatment of fusarium using traditional methods. Not every fungicide can cope with this scourge, but are you planning to kill it with herbs?

Here, supporters of organic farming face a difficult choice. Either pull out all the affected tomatoes by the roots, or use the hated chemicals. By the way, fungicides do not treat plants from fungal and other diseases. They inhibit the growth and spread of pathogenic bacteria. This allows the tomato to recover on its own.

In general, it is easier to prevent fusarium than to later save the remnants of the former luxury of tomato tops. The fungus usually begins its victorious march in July. At this time, thunderstorms often thunder, it is hot and stuffy. What else do you need? There is high humidity, the air temperature is far above +25°C. Conditions for spores are ideal.

Prevention will help in any weather. You just need to start it from the moment of sowing. Disinfection of seeds, soil, and seedling containers significantly reduces the fungi's chances of survival. Pre-treatment of the bed with a strong hot solution of potassium permanganate (a month before planting), and then with a solution of phytosporin (2 weeks before) reduces the chances of survival of pathogenic bacteria to almost zero.

Starting from the second week after planting seedlings in open ground, you need to regularly treat tomatoes with biofungicides. By the way, they can also be used in organic farming, because there is zero chemistry in the preparation. But it is full of friendly beneficial bacteria.

And further. Do not thicken the plantings, remove the lower leaves in a timely manner and avoid waterlogging. Even these simple measures reduce the risk of yellowing of tomato leaves by 50%.

Cold

Signs. Tomatoes are stunted in growth. The leaves turn yellow entirely and instantly. The border is bluish or appears blue. Often the stem will turn purple or purplish. There are no signs of oppression.

What to do. What can you do? You can't wrap a plant in a fur coat. It is also useless to give felt boots. If you have a bed of tomatoes planted, you can try covering them with thick non-woven material or throwing a film over the arches. But the roots will still be in the cold soil.

And who in Russia plants tomatoes in one bed? They always grow in whole plantations! Can you cover this one...

You will have to follow a few simple recommendations:

  1. Observe the timing of planting tomatoes in open ground, focusing on the climate of your region, and not “my sister has already planted it in Krasnodar,” while you yourself live in Arkhangelsk.
  2. If possible, plant tomatoes in greenhouses or greenhouses. This will extend the growing season and fruiting in the fall.
  3. To prevent the cold August nights from taking your harvest by surprise, choose ultra-early ripening varieties for sowing.

The tips are simple, but quite doable. By the way, you can still try to help the plants. We do not guarantee a confident result, because we have not conducted scientific research. But according to reviews, this greatly helps tomatoes quickly recover after a sharp cold snap.

We are talking about adaptogens. This is epin, aloe juice, zircon. Only a drop per liter of clean water is required for a good spray directly onto the leaves. The remaining liquid can be added to water for irrigation.

Lack of lighting

Signs. The leaves become smaller, lose turgor, become yellow and soft. Then they dry out and fall off. At the same time, the shoots become long and thin. Flowering is suspended or absent altogether.

What to do. Eliminate the cause. That is, add light. How to do this if the tomatoes are planted in open ground in a not very good place? I can’t hang the lighting lamps, I can’t turn the sun, there’s nowhere to replant the tomatoes, and it’s too late. Trees that block the light should not be cut down. The buildings cannot be moved either.

Well, when was catching the sun a problem for real Russian people? Are there any more Kulibins left? Everything is resolved very simply. The most common reflective shield made from a sheet of plywood and kitchen foil perfectly performs the function of a mirror. And it’s not at all necessary to drag it around the site all day. It is enough to install it so that the sun reflects from the surface and shines on the plantings for a while, and now the tomatoes have stopped stretching and the leaves have stopped turning yellow.

The secret is that for normal growth and high-quality fruit filling, plants may not have enough light for an hour per day. By the way, instead of foil, you can use a mirror or foil insulation. The main thing is that the surface reflects the sun's rays well.

And in the future, choose a place to plant tomatoes more carefully. It should be caressed by the sun almost all day long. After all, it is the abundance of lighting that helps the fruits turn red.

And further. Check your tomatoes regularly for pests. These little enemies of any gardener carry all sorts of infections. You can plant tomatoes in sterile soil with sterile hands. But one little nasty thing can infect all plantings.

Now you yourself know why the leaves of tomatoes turn yellow and dry out. What to do? - you can teach anyone too. Use this knowledge yourself and tell others, it will be useful and rewarding. At the same time, you will reap a decent harvest.

Video: why tomato foliage turns yellow

Cultivated representatives of the Solanaceae family are successfully grown by gardeners in open and closed ground. Tomatoes have won special love due to their excellent taste and high content of nutrients and vitamins. Therefore, it is especially annoying when tomato leaves turn black and dry before the main harvest is harvested.

It is necessary to promptly determine the cause of the disease by characteristic signs and immediately begin treatment of the plant.

Why are black spots on tomato leaves dangerous?

Even one small spot on a tomato leaf can indicate serious problems.

Any changes in the color and structure of nightshade leaves indicate serious problems with the plant.

Late blight - the scourge of tomatoes

Late blight All nightshade plants are affected, but tomatoes are the most vulnerable. This a very dangerous and common disease for tomatoes, which all gardeners face every year. Therefore, it makes sense to talk about it in more detail.

Late blight appears in the form of brown spots appearing on the leaves and stems of tomatoes.

Factors provoking the disease are cold and high humidity.

Signs:

  • The leaves become covered with brown-brown, later black, spots.
  • The “blackness” gradually spreads to the stems and fruits, causing them to rot.

Preventive measures play an important role in the fight against late blight.

Prevention and treatment of late blight with folk remedies

Solutions for treating tomatoes for the purpose of preventing late blight and in the early stages of the disease can be prepared independently from natural ingredients.


The late blight virus adapts quickly, so it is necessary to alternate different types of treatments.

Prevention and treatment of late blight with specialized drugs

If late blight is not stopped, the disease spreads to tomato fruits.

As a preventive measure, tomatoes are treated with biological products: phytosporin-m, trichodermin, pentafage, mikosan, gaupsin.

Fungicides are used to treat diseased plants: quadris, thanos, metaxil, infinito, rodomil gold, tattu, acrobat.

All drugs of biological and chemical origin should be used strictly according to instructions .

Do not disturb crop rotation and stepsoning. Carry out fertilizing and preventive treatment of plants in a timely manner. Plant tomatoes of 5-6 different varieties with increased resistance to adverse environmental conditions, zoned for your region.

Compliance with all the rules of tomato agricultural technology will minimize the incidence of plant diseases and reap rich harvests.

When tomato leaves turn yellow and dry out, this means that the rules for growing the plant have been violated. Explanations for this can be different - these are pests, any diseases, microclimate disturbances or a lack of nutrients. Now in more detail about each reason and what to do to prevent the leaves on tomatoes from turning yellow.

Microclimate disturbances

For normal growth it is necessary that there be certain conditions. Often, yellowing of leaves occurs due to the fact that the temperature or watering conditions are not suitable for the tomatoes. Accordingly, it is necessary to correctly identify the causes in order to get rid of the problem.

Temperature

For tomatoes to grow fully, they need a certain temperature: 20-25 degrees during the day and 18-20 at night. Temperature changes, especially sudden ones, are perceived extremely negatively by tomatoes.

Wilting and yellowing of the leaves of the plant is the first sign that the temperature is above normal. If this continues in the future, the inflorescences will begin to fall.

Important! To reduce the temperature in a tomato greenhouse, it needs to be ventilated. Therefore, it is necessary to have windows in the greenhouse; this should be taken into account when designing the structure.

To reduce exposure to ultraviolet radiation on tomato seedlings, you need to cover the glass in greenhouses with lime or use containers with cold water placed between the bushes.

In open ground, a canopy will help save the shoots from excessive temperatures. An excellent and simple option would be a piece of white fabric.

Watch the video! Are your tomato leaves starting to turn yellow? What is the reason and what to do?

Watering tomatoes

One of the reasons that Tomato leaves turn yellow and dry out - improper watering. The vegetable crop prefers abundant watering, but not frequent. The tomato root system is well developed; they can receive moisture and beneficial elements from a depth of up to one meter.

Important! The optimal regime for watering tomatoes is twice a week at the rate of 3 liters of water for each bush.

If there is enough rainfall, you can water less often. It is necessary to water at the root, avoiding water getting on the leaves and stems, so as not to cause a burn.

Water tomatoes with warm water. An excellent option would be rainwater collected in a container and heated in the sun. The best time for watering is morning or evening, when there is no direct sunlight. When the tomatoes bloom, you can slightly increase the frequency of watering.

Mulching with compost or straw will be a good help to ensure that the humidity level is maintained at the desired level. Another useful property of mulch is the amount of weed growth, without the need to loosen the soil.

Yellowed tomato leaves may be a signal to adjust the watering scheme.

Fertilizer shortage

It happens that tomato leaves begin to turn yellow, if there is an insufficient amount of nutrients in the soil. This often happens in greenhouses over a large area or in open areas, in other words, where it is more difficult to control the quality of the soil.

Nitrogen

When a plant lacks this substance, it is immediately noticeable. The main signs are yellowing and falling of dried tops. If this problem is not corrected urgently, the bushes begin to stretch out and the shoots become pale.

Important! It is necessary to apply fertilizers with nitrogen when transplanting tomatoes to a permanent place and when the fruits begin to set.

The benefit of nitrogenous fertilizers is the growth of green mass. Urea can be used for feeding. To do this, you need to dissolve 40 g of the substance in a bucket of water and spray the plantings.

The main thing is not to forget to dose fertilizers correctly. If there is too much nitrogen, the tomato tops will grow vigorously. The crop needs to be fed only until its condition improves.

Potassium

With a lack of this substance, the leaves turn yellow and dry, and the young shoots curl into a boat. Small spots appear along the edges, which subsequently merge with each other, causing the leaves to dry out.

Plants are fertilized with potassium during the growing season, at any stage. But you should pay attention when the fruits begin to ripen.

Advice! Fertilizers containing potassium must be chosen without chlorine.

You can choose potassium sulfate for such feeding. Thanks to it, the amount of vitamins and sugars in vegetables will increase, which allows the plant to acquire resistance to diseases.

To feed the tomatoes, take 40g of potassium sulfate, which must be dissolved in a bucket of water. Water the crop at the root or spray it on the leaf.

Magnesium

If there is insufficient quantity of it, the leaves first turn yellow along the veins and then curl.

Magnesium sulfate will help restore the normal level of this substance. For watering at the root, take 40 g per 10 liters of water, and for spraying - 20 g per the same amount of water.

The beneficial properties of magnesium include helping in the absorption of other substances such as nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium. This has a positive effect on the yield, the taste of the fruit, and the speed of development.

Sulfur

By the appearance of red veins on the leaves, which acquire a light green tint and subsequently turn yellow, a sulfur deficiency can be diagnosed. If this deficiency is not corrected, the stems become weak and brittle.

Ammoniated sulfate is well suited to restore sulfur deficiency. It can simply be dissolved in water for watering tomatoes. This will provide the vegetables with a sufficient amount of sulfur and potassium.

Iron

Chlorosis occurs due to iron deficiency. In such cases, yellow leaves appear, but the veins remain green. With a long-term deficiency, the color at the top of the bush loses brightness and saturation, and the bush stops developing.

To compensate for iron deficiency, use a solution of iron sulfate. To prepare, take 5g of water per bucket and spray tomato bushes. To consolidate the result, you should repeat the procedure after 7 days.

Watch the video! Why do tomato leaves turn yellow? Fertilizers with microelements

Diseases that affect culture

Diseases are also one of the causes of yellowing leaves. They occur in several cases: with excess moisture or improper care of plants. It is necessary to fight diseases with special drugs.

Fusarium

This disease is caused by fungal spores. The disease affects roots, stems, tops and fruits. Although the plant is affected at any period of its growth, it is especially common during the formation of fruits.

Symptoms of the disease include yellow leaves that curl and wilt. When cut through the stem, brown vessels will be visible. The disease affects the bottom of the plant, smoothly moving to the top.

If fusarium has already appeared on a plant, it must be destroyed so that the infection does not spread further. Preventive methods include treating seeds with fungicides before planting, as well as tilling the soil. Plants must be planted at a distance of 30 cm from one another, weeds must be controlled in a timely manner and the soil must be loosened.

Phytophthora

A fungal disease that manifests itself by the formation of brown spots on yellowing leaves.

If this disease is detected, the infected parts should be destroyed and the greenhouse should be ventilated to reduce humidity.

After this, healthy plants must be treated with biological preparations, for example, using Fitosporin or Trichophyte. After spraying, it is necessary to rinse the tomatoes that will be eaten especially thoroughly.

Chemicals “Quadris”, “Hom” and “Ridomil” can be used only if the crop begins to ripen in a month. They are also used after harvesting to disinfect the greenhouse and soil.

For prevention purposes, you can use a solution of 15 drops of iodine, a liter of milk and 9 liters of water. Spraying with this product helps to form a film on the surface, thanks to which harmful bacteria cannot penetrate inside.

The appearance of pests

Tomatoes suffer from aphids, spider mites and whiteflies. These pests suck sap and vitality from plants. Their spread leads to yellowing of foliage and wilting.

Insects can be controlled by spraying. The preparations “Inta-vir” and “Iskra” are used if there is a month before the tomatoes begin to ripen. They will not harm the crop and soil, but will have a paralytic effect on the nervous system of pests.

"Biotlin" is used if the crop ripens in less than a month. This drug works faster.

Other reasons

At the stage of growing seedlings tomatoes in greenhouses may turn yellow due to insufficient lighting. This problem can be solved by installing a white fluorescent lamp. The culture should be in the light for 8-10 hours.

Yellowing below may indicate mechanical damage to the roots. This happens when loosening the soil or when planting plants in open ground. The plant will regain its color when fully established.

Conclusion

The yellowness of tomato leaves often depends on the environment and the presence of nutrients in the soil. Inconsistency in temperature conditions or watering schemes can have a detrimental effect on the condition of the plant and the crop as a whole.

If the cause is disease or the planting is suffering from pests, the tomatoes are sprayed with special solutions. Sometimes folk remedies that are safe for plants and fruits are used for this.

Watch the video! Why do tomato leaves turn yellow in a greenhouse?