Kuznetsky Most Central Fashion House. All-Union House of Fashion Models. Luxury atelier

All-Union House of Fashion Models on Kuznetsky Most (ODMO)- the famous Soviet fashion house.

In the 1930s, the concept of the Soviet Fashion House appeared in the USSR, initially, in fact, these were just fashion studios, or experimental and technical laboratories common at that time, for example, the Mostorg Model House, located on Bolshaya Dmitrovka, which opened in 1933; the department of model dresses at the Central Department Store of the USSR People's Commissariat for Internal Trade; the small House of Models of the Mosbelier Trust; the department of model dresses of the experimental and technical factory of the "Moshvey" trust, etc.

In 1934, on the basis of the experimental and technical laboratory of the Mosbelie trust, thanks largely to the manager of the Mosbelie trust Inna Efimovna Bamdas, the first Model House in the USSR was created, located on Sretenka in house number 22. The niece became the head of the Model House Nadezhda Lamanova, fashion designer Nadezhda Makarova. Lamanova herself has been an art consultant for the House of Models for many years.

In the system of the "Moskovshvey" trust (not to be confused with the Moscow seamstress - the Moscow state trust of the garment industry, since 1922 uniting the sewing factories of Moscow) there were enterprises that manufacture outerwear, and in the system of the Mosbelie trust - dresses and underwear. In 1938, the House of Models under the Mosbelie Trust was merged with the experimental and technical garment factory of the Moskovshvey trust, and this is how the Moscow House of Models (MDM) appeared. Since 1938, the Moscow House of Models, through the publishing house Gizlegprom, began to publish its own fashion magazine.

Since 1936, the first Soviet fashion magazines began to appear not with drawings, but with photographs.

Among the creators of Soviet fashion of those years there were many talented craftsmen, one of them, of course, Nadezhda Makarova, besides her, such wonderful professionals as Fekla Gorelenkova, a student of Nadezhda Lamanova herself, Elena Fedotova, Alexandra Lyamina, Elena Raizman worked in the Model House. The original toilets were created by the silent film actress Anel Sudakevich, who worked at the Moscow House of Models in those years.

By the end of the 1930s, the question arose in the country about organizing a unified design system. fashionable clothes nationwide and the need for special modeling of clothing for garment enterprises. But create centralized system modeling of clothing was only possible in the 1940s.

At the end of the war, in 1944, the Soviet government decided to open a new house models on the famous "fashion street" since the 18th century - Kuznetsky Most, in house number 14.

The new Soviet House of Models is housed in a building built at the beginning of the twentieth century, designed by Adolf Erichson, an outstanding Russian architect and master of the Art Nouveau style. In the period 1901-1903, Erichson, commissioned by the merchant Alexei Mikhailov, a great connoisseur of fur business, created a project for a building at 14 Kuznetsky Most, where AM Mikhailov's "Shop of Siberian and American Fur Products" was located.

Alexey Mikhailov practically created a fur Fashion House of European proportions in Russia at that time, combining the unity of the principles of a commercial enterprise - a luxurious fur store, the premises of which were specially planned for demonstrating models, for fitting, as well as for sewing workshops. Everything was thought out so thoroughly that it has not lost its functionality for many years.

A new important stage began in the history of the Soviet fashion industry... The best fashion designers of the country were supposed to develop promising clothing models for the Soviet people, and garment factories were going to oblige to produce products not at their own discretion, but only according to the patterns of the most successful model samples.

In addition to Moscow, in the 1940s, Model Houses were opened in Kiev, Leningrad, Minsk, Riga. At the end of the war, the state, which advocated the revival of clothing design, did not have the funds for fashion. Therefore, the Moscow House of Models was obliged to work on the principles of self-sufficiency. It was planned that garment workers would order and pay for the design of fashionable clothing models at the Moscow Fashion House for their introduction in factories.

The Moscow House of Models was obliged to proactively develop and offer new clothing models to seamstresses, working at a loss. Since the modeling turned out to be unprofitable, the main source of livelihood was the orders of a structure called Glavobtorg. The Moscow House of Models not only developed new models of fashionable clothes, but also sewed them in small batches, which were then successfully sold through the capital's commercial stores and exemplary special stores that appeared in the country back in the 1930s.

In 1945, in order to promote Soviet fashion, the Moscow House of Models began to hold open fashion shows for the population with the involvement of fashion models, accompanied by comments by art critics talking about fashion trends... In addition, in a special exhibition and demonstration hall, expositions of new clothing models were periodically held, where any visitor could view the fashionable samples worn on mannequins and receive advice from the duty fashion designer about fashion trends.

since 1945 Model House on Kuznetsky Most began an independent publishing activity. Since 1945, the "Fashion Magazine" has become a regular publication of the SSSS Ministry of Legislation, and is published four times a year. For many years, the editorial office of this magazine was located in the House of Models itself, and its editor-in-chief was the artist-fashion designer Antonina Donskaya. The work of the House of Models was covered by another oldest magazine the "Model of the Season" mod, which appeared in the USSR in the 1920s. In 1959, the publication of the magazine "Fashion of the Socialist Countries" began, with the same editorial board as the "Fashion Magazine", under the leadership of the same Antonina Donskoy, the editorial office of the "Fashion of the Socialist Countries" magazine was located, in the same place on Kuznetsky Most.

Until 1947, the manufacture of clothing was constantly expanding. The creation of sewing shops at the Fashion Houses could be a good addition to mass factory production. However, after the liquidation of the commercial trade system and the transfer of the Moscow House of Models from 1948 to state funding, the cessation of small-scale and experimental production of new models of fashionable clothes followed.

During the war years, at many garment factories, creative departments were completely eliminated or reduced, which were engaged in the so-called "fine-tuning" of models, making patterns and other work requiring modeling skills. In addition, there were big problems with fabrics in the country. For these reasons, factories abandoned the sophisticated designs of the House of Models and preferred to produce clothes that were easier to manufacture.

In 1947, officials in the light industry, headed by A.N. Kosygin, who at that time held the post of Chairman of the Bureau for Trade and Light Industry under the Council of Ministers of the USSR, decided to fight the dominance of unfashionable, low-quality things on the shelves. Leading employees of the Moscow House of Models were instructed to conduct a survey and assess the products manufactured by garment factories. This check lasted until 1948. As a result, many products were discontinued. A number of factories were prohibited from self-modeling. Since 1947, the Metropolitan House of Models was entrusted with supervising the activities of peripheral sewing enterprises, as well as the system of tailoring ateliers.

By the end of the 1940s, the Moscow Model House actually turned into a kind of Soviet mod institute with many services and divisions. In 1948 the Moscow House of Models was reorganized into All-Union House of Fashion Models(ODMO). By the beginning of 1949, 12 republican and regional Model Houses were already organized and they were united into a single system headed by the All-Union House of Fashion Models. Created in the late 1940s, a unified system of model houses headed by ODMO survived until the 1990s.

In the post-war decade, the team All-Union House of Fashion Models on Kuznetsky Most was replenished with a whole galaxy of excellent professionals who came to create Soviet fashion. Many of them were graduates of the country's first Moscow Textile Institute.

In 1930, in connection with the need in the country for training specialists-artists for the production of textile and light industry, these specialties were allocated from VKHUTEMAS (Higher Artistic and Technical Workshops - a Moscow educational institution, created in 1920) in Moscow and transferred to the Textile Institute. The department of artistic costume design was organized as an independent department in 1965. Until that time, she was a member of the Department of Special Composition, headed by Professor P.P. Pashkov, where, since 1938, training was carried out both for technologists in weaving, printing and knitwear, and for costume designers.

The war interrupted the training of artists, and only in 1947 the admission of applicants to the specialty of an artist-fashion designer was resumed.

Many famous artists worked at the faculty and the department, including the artists of the All-Union House of Models - A.I. Cheremnykh, V.D. Gorovets, I.L. Leonidova, A.F. Kulichev, L.F. Turchanovskaya, A.V. Kosmacheva and others. These teachers laid a brilliant foundation for the school of arts associated with the training of artists-technologists in the field of light industry.

Among the pioneers were Anna Blank, who from 1944 to 1948 was the chief artistic director of the Moscow House of Models, and from 1948 to 1958 - the All-Union House of Fashion Models, Vera Aralova, Valeria Horowitz, Tamara Fidel, Antonina Donskaya, Lyudmila Turchanovskaya, Tatyana Ksenofontova, Tamara Kuznetsova, Alla Levashova, Valeria Nikolaevskaya, and others.

In the future, the team Model houses on Kuznetsky Most replenished with a whole galaxy of talented designers - fashion designers, such as: the legendary Vyacheslav Zaitsev, Alexander Igmand (1991 - 2002 - the chief artistic director of the House of Models), Svetlana Kacharava, Tamara Mokeeva, Yulia Denisova, Tatyana Osmerkina, Natalia Orskaya, Galina Gagarina, Elena Sterligova, Elena Ivanova, Lina Telegina, Tatyana Bolshakova, Galina Krokhmaleva, Galina Chernopyatova, Magda Andreeva, Valeria Chekunina, Tatyana Frank, Natalia Shtoff, Irina Krutikova, art critics Alla Shchipakina, Irene Andreeva and others Yaglovsky.

Since 1953 he takes part in all domestic exhibitions, at many international exhibitions and congresses of fashion. After international fashion congresses, the editors of the "Fashion Magazine" working at ODMO are preparing for printing specialized editions - albums with photographs of clothing models from different countries who took part in the congress. In 1958, the All-Union House of Models held the first meeting on the culture of clothing together with the CMEA (Council for Economic Assistance of Socialist Countries), such events, the purpose of which was to exchange experience and discuss the prospects of fashion, became annual.

In 1957, the International Fashion Congress was held in Moscow for the first time. One of the organizers of the congress was ODMO. Model House on Kuznetsky Most regularly took part in organizing foreign fashion shows. In 1967, with the help of ODMO, International festival mod, which took place on the territory of the Luzhniki Stadium. The main event of this festival was the arrival of the Chanel House in Moscow. The Grand Prix of the festival was awarded to fashion designer Tatyana Osmyorkina for the dress “Russia”.

From the 1960s to the late 1980s, ODMO - All-Union House of Fashion Models on Kuznetsky Most was the main modeling center of the Soviet light industry.

V Soviet time all collections of the House of Models came out under the brand: "The team of the House of Models" Kuznetsky Most ". The names of the masters were not known. In 1974 Slava Zaitsev was included in the gallery best fashion designers the world of the last century, but he was able to leave the USSR only in 1988.

The fashion house created two main collections a year. Each in two versions. The first option served as a model for the industry, since the House of Models was originally created specifically to help garment workers and was the methodological center of all Fashion Houses in the USSR. The items from the collections had to match the capabilities of the garment factories. But the problem of total shortage did not allow garment factories to exactly fulfill the ideas of fashion designers. One could constantly hear from them: “We don’t have such buttons, change it, we don’t sew such a detail, simplify it, it will be expensive with such a lining, change it”, and so on for each model. After that, the buyers looked at the finished products, which reached the stores with complete bewilderment, asking one question: "What kind of specialists are they working in the Model House?"

The second version of the collection was intended for shows abroad. It was performed for a worthy demonstration of Soviet fashion. There was also one invariable requirement - some of the items in each collection for external displays were obligatory to demonstrate the national flavor of some of the republics of the USSR.

Clothes from the runway of the All-Union House of Models never went on sale, they were bought up by the wives and children of the Kremlin elite and large nomenklatura workers, members of delegations sent abroad, and the country's creative elite. Unique items from expensive materials were made exclusively for the prestige of the USSR, for demonstrations at international industrial exhibitions.

In the 1990s, the existence Model houses on Kuznetsky Most was critical, out of sixty fashion designers only six remained. There are practically no art critics who have worked in the All-Union House of Fashion Models for many years.

In 2002, the MDM Group became the owner of the House of Models. Most of the 150 employees of the House of Models were fired, and a year later the building was sold to Podium, a Russian fashion retailer. Currently, the house houses a premium clothing store "Podium concept store". The building is a cultural heritage site.

All-Union House of Fashion Models(ODMO)

History

Founded in 1944, during the Great Patriotic War, by the decision of the Government of the USSR.

The famous fashion house attracted women with model shows and especially sales ready-made patterns... Its upper hall was decorated with 50 wooden figures representing the history of the costume from the time of the most ancient civilizations.

The All-Union House of Models on Kuznetsky Most enjoyed great fame throughout the world. Nadezhda Lamanova stood at its origins. She was able to summarize the historical path of the development of fashion in Russia, to combine it into a single whole with the creative directions and principles of organizing the work of the leading pre-revolutionary and modern famous high fashion houses and pret-a-portee. She created a special world of creative intellectual research of the image of modernity. Nadezhda Lamanova had public recognition as “Supplier of the Court of Her Imperial Majesty”. In 1925, together with the sculptor Vera Mukhina N. Lamanova was awarded the Grand Prix

The first fashion houses in the USSR appeared in the late 1920s and early 1930s.

But at first these were large ateliers, which gained popularity for the quality of tailoring. One of them is the Mostorg Model House in Moscow on Bolshaya Dmitrovka Street, where the most fashionable dressmakers worked there, to whom there was a queue six months in advance to sign up. Mostorg's model house started working in 1933.

Then, nearby, on Sretenka Street, in 1934, the famous House of Models opened in the USSR, in the development of the design of the collections of which such famous personalities as the artist Favorsky and the designers of the Art Theater Nadezhda Lamakina and Alexandra Lyamina took part.

At the same time, the famous tailoring trust "Moshvey" partially reoriented to the production of fashion clothes, they also organized a show fashionable dresses in one of the central department stores of the capital.

Fashion swept across the country, people wanted to dress beautifully, on this wave, fashion houses are opening everywhere in the USSR, shows are organized in local houses of culture, theaters, department stores. Demonstrators of clothes - then this profession officially appeared in the USSR under Soviet fashion houses. In the USSR, clothing demonstrators were ordinary "workers of the 5th category."

By the mid-1930s, the need for a unified system of designing and modeling fashionable clothes for the entire country was ripe in the USSR.
A fashion design faculty opens at the Textile Institute in Moscow.

Focusing on the Moscow Fashion Houses in Leningrad and other large cities of the country, regional fashion houses are being opened. By the 40s in the USSR, a system was already fully formed from the design and demonstration of fashionable clothes in the houses of Models, to its sewing in factories and in atelier trusts.

In the post-war period, by 1946, fashion in the USSR inspired more and more people. On Kuznetsky Most in Moscow, ODMO, the All-Union House of Fashion Models, started working. Open fashion shows were held, clothing collections were modeled for more than 500 sewing associations throughout the USSR.

The All-Union House of Fashion Models sold patterns for mere mortals and stitched cars, creating real masterpieces of fashion for the Soviet elite.

By the beginning of the 50s, shows in the halls of the House of Models on Kuznetsky Most and in GUM were held several times a day. There was something to see. By that time, a real professional workshop of Soviet fashion designers had taken shape, which included such big names as Galina Gagarina, Tamara Makeeva, Alexander Igmand, Vera Aralova, and, a little later, Slava Zaitsev. But only a select few couturiers of Model Houses in the USSR could boast of a “personalized” reputation.

The All-Union House of Models during the Soviet era produced all clothing collections under the brand “Authors of the House of Models“ Kuznetsky Most ”. However, the collections of our fashion designers from Soviet fashion houses went abroad, were successful there, which subsequently allowed many of them to create a brilliant reputation in the fashion world, and when the Iron Curtain finally collapsed to open their own fashion houses.

In the years of stagnation, Vyacheslav Zaitsev was one of the first, recognized abroad, to be offered a job in the United States.

But the splendid designs from Soviet fashion houses most often did not reach the country's sewing shops. More precisely, according to GOST, all fashionable nuances, fabric, accessories, even cut were simplified. Therefore, buyers of that era often lamented when purchasing clothes produced by Soviet factories: "I would like to look at these fashion designers!"

Victoria Maltseva

You can understand that summer is about to burst into Moscow by appearance urban fashionistas: sandals with thin heels, short skirts, multi-colored dresses. With the onset of the spring-summer season, the concentration of beauty and style in the metropolis increases many times over. Moscow has been a "trendsetter" of the country's fashion since the days of the USSR, but Soviet women had very few opportunities to dress up, especially in the first decades after the Great Patriotic War, when the country was literally rising from the ruins. And the very concept of "fashion" in the USSR was often reduced to the process of painful "getting" just new clothes.

ODMO almighty

The All-Union House of Fashion Models (ODMO) opened on Kuznetsky Most became the main fashion center in post-war Moscow. It was here that the most talented and skilled designers of clothes, cutters and tailors worked, developing collections for 300 garment factories of the USSR. Of course, it was here that the entire Soviet government elite dressed up.

The All-Union House of Fashion Models occupied a building built here in 1889 to house the factory and shop of the furrier merchant Alexei Mikhailov. But the front facade with large windows, intended for displaying fur models, was rebuilt and decorated in 1903 by the architect Adolf Erichson in the spirit of decorative Art Nouveau.

The former building of the All-Union House of Fashion Models on Kuznetsky Most (far right).

One of the American journalists who visited ODMO in 1957 compared it to the fashion houses of Balenciaga and Christian Dior.

Right now in former house ODMO on Kuznetsky Most is a fashion store.

Luxury atelier

Now it is difficult to imagine that it was not so easy to buy a new fashionable outfit in Soviet stores. Even if some consignments of goods were “thrown out” on store shelves, not everyone was able to buy them, either because of lack of money, or because there were simply more people who wanted than goods. The city's ateliers could help out the fashionistas of the capital, where it was possible to sew an outfit to order. However, the ateliers were also not a cheap pleasure, and many of them were generally positioned as "elite" ones.

One of these ateliers "Lux" was located on the Kuznetsky Most in the former trading building of the Dzhamgarov brothers-bankers. Originally built in 1893 by the architect Boris Freudenberg, the building was later rebuilt by the architect Adolf Erichson.

And, of course, ateliers worked at every major metropolitan department store. So, a luxury studio worked in TSUM. Sometimes some "surplus" of such ateliers entered the store shelves and became more or less accessible to "mere mortals".

Fashion salon in GUM

In 1953, after lengthy restorations and repairs, the Main Department Store (GUM) of the country was opened on Red Square, which instantly turns into a real "sanctuary" of fashion and style. All the most scarce, rare and unique goods the fashion industry were brought here. The store also had its own atelier.

In 1959, an event took place in Moscow that literally turned the eyes of Soviet people to fashion: the legendary fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent brought to the capital of the USSR a collection of clothes by the House of Dior, consisting of 120 delightful outfits never seen before by Soviet people. 12 beautiful models "walked" in luxurious dresses along the shopping alleys of GUM, as well as along Moscow streets.

After this significant event, fashion shows began to take place regularly in the GUM showroom on the third floor, and ordinary customers could get into the audience.

In the early 80s of the twentieth century, the Moscow Fashion House was opened on Prospekt Mira, the director of which was one of the fashion designers of ODMO, the legendary Vyacheslav Zaitsev. It was he who managed to turn the Fashion House into an oasis of haute couture, where the personal collections Pret-a-Porter and Haute Couture were created, which gained fame on the best foreign catwalks.

The Zaitsev Fashion House is still operating, and there is also the Theater of Fashion Studio School, created by the maestro himself.

In the 17th century, on the site of the current possessions Nos. 12 and 14 across the Kuznetsky Most, the courtyard of the steward IM Vederevsky was located. Later, the owners changed. At the beginning of the 19th century, the property belonged to the merchant Franz Gutt, and then to his widow Elizabeth. In March 1813, the newspaper "Moskovskie Vedomosti" announced that "Elisaveta Gutt, upon her return to Moscow, living on Kuznetsky Most, in own home, entering the courtyard in the western wing, continues to make various ladies' attire. Having also suffered ruin during the invasion of the enemy, she humbly asks the gentlemen of the debtors to pay her debts in a short time. "

In the middle of the 19th century, the site was acquired by Sever Alekseevich Ermolov, the son of the famous commander A.P. Ermolov.

And in the 1880s it was bought by the first guild merchant-furrier Alexei Mikhailovich Mikhailov. Having started his career as a "boy" at a store, Mikhailov eventually became the owner of one of the largest fur firms in Russia, the founder of the Siberian trading house selling fur goods.

Soon, in the courtyard of his estate on Kuznetsky Most, he erected a four-story building of a fur factory designed by architect V.V.Barkov.

In 1901-1903, a modern house was built by a famous Moscow architect on the site of an old two-story house facing the street. The lower floor has been finished with polished dark red granite with black labradorite Tuscan columns and bronze details. The second and third floors are decorated with stucco moldings in the decorative Art Nouveau style. The graceful lattices of the balconies on the second and fourth floors are noteworthy.

The interiors of the trading floor were designed by the artist V.A.Favorsky.

In 1906-1907, the building was built on with an additional fifth floor according to the design of the same architect.

Later, Erichson also rebuilt A. Mikhailov's apartment building on Bolshaya Dmitrovka, a well-known "Egyptian" house in Moscow.

AM Mikhailov died in 1916, and a year and a half later his company was nationalized. The fur factory on Kuznetsky Most continued to work for a long time in the Soviet years. And the Mikhailovsky fur refrigerator on Bolshaya Dmitrovka (in the courtyard of house No. 11) is still in operation.

The famous All-Union House of Fashion Models was located in the building on Kuznetsky Most in the mid-1940s. The House of Models created clothing collections for many garment factories in the USSR. In addition, individual orders for tailoring were carried out here. Famous politicians and artists were among the clients of the model house. In particular, Leonid Brezhnev sewed costumes for himself here. In the 1950s, the building was partially rebuilt.

In 2002, the Kuznetsky Most Model House was closed. Now there is a large store selling premium clothing.

The building is under state protection.