A brief history of men's fashion in the 18th - early 20th centuries. Philosophy of costume design: how to choose a classic men's suit Men's four-piece suit

Alan Flusser, the designer and tailor who dressed Michael Douglas, who played Gordon Gekko in the 1987 film Wall Street, once said, “If a man is running for president, he is interviewed for a high-level job or needs a better table in a gourmet restaurant, he will most likely wear a suit. a tailor-made tailor, with matching trousers, remains a single official authority, offering politeness, diplomacy and physical self-control. "

Whatever your relationship with tailoring - whether it's the staple of your daily uniform or something that you are reluctant to wear when the occasion dictates its own rules - no one will deny that a suit has a certain look and remains a defining trait.

Considering that tailoring remains an integral part of our life, and it is one of the most valuable elements of our wardrobe, it is worth knowing a few things about the types of men's suits.

Suit types:

Suit Evaluation Rules:

Two-piece suit

Gray fitted wool suit

The most common style of suit, consisting of a matching jacket and trousers.

Three-piece suit

Prince of Wales gray fitted wool suit

A three-piece suit consists of a matching jacket, trousers and vest. The style was popular before the advent of central heating, as the vest provided an extra layer of insulation. It has been revived in recent years and is considered more formal than the standard two-piece suit, making it a better option for more enjoyable occasions (like racing) - but it's also a strong choice for office days.

Suit with double-breasted blazer

Light Blue Mohair and Silk Double Breasted Suit

Suit where the front button fastening of the jacket overlaps. It usually consists of two vertical rows of buttons, with one row of loops. There is often a single button on the underside to secure the jacket from the inside. Double-breasted blazers are best avoided for men with a large belly, as they visually add bulk.

Single-breasted suit

Light blue tailored suit with single breasted wool and soho fabric

Suit with a jacket, which is fastened using one row of one, two, three or sometimes four buttons. Buttons fastened to the left as a standard dating back to the 17th century, presumably so that a right-handed person can more easily unfasten his jacket with his left hand and on his right draw out his sword if he finds himself stranded. Single-breasted suits are generally more suitable on warmer days as the fabrics are smaller than double-breasted suits. Alternatively, you can leave the single-breasted blazer unbuttoned and look neat.

The tuxedo

Blue Slim Fit Wool Tuxedo

The dinner suit arose out of the need to transform the nobility into something pure by spending the day hunting, shooting, and fishing on their estates. Known as in the USA, it usually consists of a black, white, cream, or blue jacket, and black trousers with a black or satin stripe down the sides of each leg.

The jacket is either double-breasted or single-breasted and worn with a white shirt and. This is the right style for any party that requires a black tie dress code - a Christmas company dinner or an evening wedding reception.

Suit with supportive inner lining

This indicates that the suit jacket was created with a supportive inner lining that used to be made from horsehair. This means the suit will shape your body as you wear it and prevent it from sagging as you age. Most suits do not have this inner lining, so they don't last as long.

Deconstruction suit

This is when the suit is made with a conspicuous lack of structured padding and other reinforcements. This gives him a more relaxed, free feeling. This design and sewing method was pioneered by those who tend to prefer a more relaxed approach.

Custom made suit

This is when the costume is made with the exact characteristics of the individual client, down to the smallest detail, from start to finish. Also known as custom made, it includes consultation, measurement, fabric selection, cutting, and multiple fitting sessions. The name comes from "bespeak" - an old English phrase that served as a direction to do something.

Suit made to measure

A step below the bespoke suit where the partially created suit is resized to the client's measurements and measurements.

"Ready suit"

A ready-made suit that has been cut and designed for the most common body shapes for mass production.

Now let's move on to the rules for evaluating a suit for quality and.

The modern suit is often associated with prosperity, but ironically, its roots go back to a time of marked capital shortages. In 17th century England, a costly war with the Dutch led King Charles II to impose some restrictions on the ostentatious display of wealth.

So, the sovereign urged his courtiers to wear original (for that period) jackets, vests and trousers made of dark fabrics, instead of plush and bright clothes that were used earlier.

In today's world, you hardly need to listen to the king. But the correct selection of a suit falls on your shoulders. In any purposeful process, we can highlight some of the axioms that form the foundation of the success of the activity. In training, it is a warm-up and equipment, in the art of a cook it is the selection of products and the correct ratio of proportions. The rules for choosing a men's suit are axioms that will help you determine a high-quality-low-quality suit. And immediately in your mind, make a ranking by price, durability and place of use. Knowing these little things can be needed many times throughout your life. So, let's get down to the axioms.

Find out the type of wool

If you carefully selected a suit earlier, you might have noticed the inscriptions "super 100s", "super 140s", etc. inside on the labels. But have you ever wondered what these numbers mean? In short - these numbers are characteristics of the texture of the fabric - the higher the number, the softer the wool fibers.

The very presence of the super attachment means that the thread is woven extremely well, which turns it into a luxurious fabric that is very pleasant to wear, but not suitable for all situations. The higher the grade of wool, the softer and less durable the fabric becomes. Wool from super 100 to super 130 is versatile and suitable for most occasions, including everyday.

High grades of wool from super 140 to super 160 are best for special occasions. She is softer, more luxurious and more vulnerable. Discuss this issue also with the seller, he will surely tell you a lot of interesting things.

Check the buttons on the cuffs

Functioning cuffs, or surgeon's cuffs, came to be called so after the emergence of military field doctors who needed to roll up their sleeves to help wounded soldiers. While you will most likely find them in bespoke suits, many tailors also include this detail in their ready-to-wear collections.

Do you know how much more time it takes to make a suit with functional buttons on the cuffs? A good specialist can do this in an hour. And at the same time it is a very highly qualified job. Some tailors deliberately remove one of the buttons so that others can see the handicraft. Well, of course, pay attention to the material of the buttons. It is desirable that it be natural, namely horns, walnut or mother-of-pearl.

Check how the suit fits on you

Heard this definition for a fully canvassed suit? This designation tells how well the suit will fit on you. Traditionally, the best jackets are made with an inner layer of horsehair and wool, which maintains the structure of the suit and allows it to shape the contours of your body over time.

A man's suit is a very elegant and business attire, perfect for many occasions. Men wear it for a date, a business meeting, a dinner party, or an evening dance. There are very, very many reasons for using this item of men's wardrobe.

Currently, men wear several types of this.However, not everyone knows how they differ from each other. However, if you choose the right suit for a specific situation, you can appear more stylish and attractive, as well as make a lasting first impression. And in most cases in which men put on a suit, this is very necessary.

In this article, you will learn about the types of men's suits and their differences from each other. Thanks to this variety, everyone can choose something to their liking. In addition, for a specific situation, a given wardrobe item must have a certain style. Therefore, you will have to work hard and find out about all types and names of men's suits.

What is the difference?

First of all, in order to figure out what kind of this wardrobe item you need, you should understand what the difference between them may be. Many are accustomed to looking at such things from a certain angle. This prevents them from seeing the difference between different types of men's suits. It is in this issue that we will now try to figure it out.

Basically, this outfit comes in a variety of styles. Types of men's suits in tailoring and cut also differ and have certain "zest" and details. As mentioned above, you should have a separate pair of trousers and a jacket for each situation, because business style can be very different from sports style. It is very important to make sure that your "outfit" is in place and does not cause unnecessary confusion among others. It remains only to figure out what types of these clothes are needed and where they are supposed to be worn.

Classic men's suits

There are several types of men's suits, and the classic one is one of them. They are the most popular among males. However, if there are types of classic men's suits, then they have features and details characteristic of them. This moment should be analyzed in more detail and given the most attention. After all, it is this type of men's business suit that every man should have in his wardrobe. They are somewhat universal. The classic look is perfect for a work and serious environment. However, it is not a shame in it to come to any celebration or banquet if you suddenly do not have a tuxedo for this occasion.

Price

One of the main indicators of the quality of clothing is its price, and a men's suit cannot be excluded. It is very important that it is not very cheap, because cheapness is often an indicator of economy and insufficient quality of the product.

It is difficult to understand exactly what price it should be, because not everyone wants to spend a lot of money on well-known brands. So, although the price is of great importance, you should not dwell on it. We advise you to focus on the next point.

Quality

This is the most basic criterion to be guided by when buying absolutely all men's suits, including classic ones. Since most of these clothes are made from yarn, it is worth paying attention to how the yarn is twisted. The more and more densely it is done, the better the thing itself will be.

Usually, classic men's suits are made of fine wool. However, in our time, you can find species from various and even unusual materials, for example, from flax, silk and bamboo fiber.

In addition, there is one thing that you definitely need to pay attention to when choosing a jacket - the lining in the chest area. In order for it to subsequently not cause you any inconvenience in wearing, you need to make sure that it is made of an ecological and breathable material. Thus, you will feel more comfortable than if this lining was of synthetic origin. The best material in this case is cotton.

Pockets

If you do not skimp on the purchase of a more expensive classic men's suit, you may find that such clothes have several special internal pockets. They are made so that small documents can be placed there, for example, a passport, also a cell phone and all kinds of writing utensils. It is preferable to purchase those models in which the pockets are either on the lining (it was mentioned earlier), or on the edge of the jacket. In this case, their contents will not bulge and spoil the aesthetic appearance.

Note. If you cannot choose the country of origin, then it is best to take a closer look at men's suits made in Italy. Italian pairs of trousers and a jacket, in most cases, look more neat, and also maintain their shape, preventing the fabric from settling and "falling apart".

Types of men's suits and their names

According to many people, a business classic suit is the main type of this clothing that every average person should have, and the other types are no different from him.

However, in addition to it, there are many types and styles of men's suits. They have a large number of differences among themselves, ranging from the difference in style, ending with small details. These differences can be both significant and almost imperceptible. Right now we will look at the types of men's suits with examples and photos.

Formal

This type of costume includes a variety of tuxedos and tailcoats, which are mainly worn at traditional events. This kind of thing is worn for very special occasions and celebrations. The formal appearance of the suit is of significant historical and cultural nature, so it makes no sense to wear it on an ordinary day or wear it as an everyday outfit. It's like taking an umbrella with you on a sunny and clear day. So it is recommended to wear this type of men's suit only for very important receptions.

The tuxedo

A tuxedo (if you compare it with a tailcoat) is a more common option, but this does not deprive him of the same solemnity. A tuxedo is a diligent and intelligent dress that is usually worn at significant events.

The jacket, which does not cover the chest, has lapels on it. Combines with matching trousers, which are usually straight fit. As a rule, it is supplemented with a vest or a sash.

Despite the fact that now a tuxedo jacket is worn for gala evenings and banquets, it used to have a completely different purpose. Several centuries ago, this piece of clothing was worn by aristocrats in order to go into a special smoking room. After that, they simply took off their jacket and returned to the celebration. That is why our word "tuxedo" is consonant with the English verb smoke - to smoke.

Tailcoat

And the purpose of this costume has not changed from time immemorial. Nowadays, it is used in the same way as when it was invented. The exception is that in ancient times it was worn only by rich people and ranks of high society, and now almost every non-poor person can afford a tailcoat (if, of course, there is a need for this).

The jacket is quite unusual for a suit. It is short in front and elongated in the back. These elongated ends are called folds. It is customary to wear black patent leather shoes, a bow tie for this type of jacket, and the shirt is usually starchy white, which gives the image even more sophistication.

Unlike a tuxedo, narrow trousers are worn to the tailcoat, which cannot be fastened with a belt (not accepted). Well, the highlight of this image can be called white gloves, as well as a white handkerchief, neatly sticking out of the front pocket of the jacket. Often, instead of a scarf, small applications of flowers are simply attached there.

Informal

This is a type of men's suits, which, like formal suits, is divided into several categories. What they all have in common is that they differ from the rather old costumes that people wore for several decades, and maybe even centuries ago. They are a more casual and simpler version. They also came into fashion quite recently, but have already gained considerable popularity and distribution.

Everyday

But such men's suits are just asking to be worn in everyday life. Even though it's just a jacket and pants, it can create an interesting look. This style combines both the seriousness, severity, neatness of a man, and relaxation, mixed with calmness and fun. Why is there such a difference between these types of men's suits, you ask. And it's all about the difference in styles and colors.

If tailcoats and classic suits have a more austere color, their jacket and trousers are, for the most part, monochromatic, then casual-style suits represent a more interesting version.

1. Firstly, the color scheme of the top and bottom of such a set may differ. And it is worth saying that almost always it looks appropriate and tasteful, because, as a rule, colors are combined with each other, while adding unusualness to the image.
2. Secondly, such a suit is more casual, hence its name. In this one, you can easily go on a first date, a walk with friends, a party. In a suit like this, you can go anywhere and still feel comfortable and confident.

But still, everyday suits are not as durable as classic ones, since they have a different tailoring and a wider fold of thread. So don't be discouraged if it wears out faster, as this is normal. Also, unlike formal ones, instead of a shirt, an ordinary plain T-shirt is worn under a jacket. And a T-shirt, matched to the tone of the suit itself, will emphasize your sense of style and ability to dress well.

Fashion item

This is also one of the varieties of informal costumes. This phrase is translated from English as a fashionable thing. However, this means a one-season suit, which is fashionable right here and now. The main emphasis in this look is not on the style, not on the color scheme, but on the showiness of the fabric.

According to custom, this wardrobe item is made of linen, cotton or silk. Other materials can also be used. But more attention is paid to linen and silk. They are more advantageous because they provide coolness on a hot day and a pleasant feeling on the body.

Fashion item type clothing is quite expensive in itself, but in most cases this cost pays for itself in comfort. Such suits are even more convenient when traveling to hot countries and tropics.

Jacket models

Jackets, of course, also differ among themselves by several factors, and now let's figure out which ones.

• Single-breasted. Such a jacket implies that there are buttons on one part of it, and on the opposite slot or loops for them. This is perhaps the most popular type of jacket, as most men prefer this cut. And all thanks to its versatility. After all, such a jacket can be worn at a working meeting, and as an ordinary everyday thing.
• Double-breasted. Unlike the first model, the buttons on this jacket are located both on the right and on the left side of it. Although you cannot call it universal, it is still very easy for it to find application in a certain area. It is customary to wear double-breasted jackets for business and work meetings, so a man seems more strict and serious.

Outcome

In this article, we examined the types and photos of men's suits that are customary to be worn in the 21st century. Since all styles of this item of men's wardrobe are completely different, then the situations and places in which you need to appear in this or that kind of suit are also different. The simplest option is the usual classic suit, and for a major celebration it is customary for men to wear, for example, tailcoats.

There is a great variety of different styles, styles and colors. And thanks to this, literally everyone will be able to choose the thing that suits them. One has only to understand the types of men's suits. And this, as is clear from the article, is not so difficult.

From all that is necessary, it remains only to understand where you will put on such an image, and why you need it specifically. Thanks to your knowledge of the types of suits, it is much easier to choose exactly the model that suits you, and the one that will pay for itself several times over thanks to its comfort and convenience.

In the wardrobe of a successful man, a suit is a must. Even appearing at work every day in jeans does not detract from the tediousness of the suit. At least one high-quality copy should be in the closet. There are several types of clothing, so it is quite possible to make a choice in favor of one of them. With external similarity, they all differ among themselves in cut, color and models.

Fashionable men's suits of various styles. 210 photos.

Types of costumes

Men's fashion is more conservative and consistent. Her changes are not as frequent as those of a woman's. However, men who follow the wardrobe are aware of both the purpose and the differences between the suits.

There are many products of various styles. There are no fewer names of costumes. However, almost everything falls into two categories: single and double breasted.

Single-breasted includes a vest and jacket in a three-piece design. "Deuce" does without a vest. Men choose "three" less and less often. Single-breasted jackets are more relevant, more common and familiar to the business world. The main feature of the single-breasted model is the slot or two at the back and the rectangular shape of the lapels. There are usually two or three buttons.

According to the rules of etiquette, only the upper of the two is buttoned, or the product is left completely unbuttoned. If there are three buttons, it is customary to fasten the top two or only the one in the middle. In any combination, the bottom button will remain unbuttoned.

If there is only one button, then the suit belongs to the category of designer ones. Such models are rare. And they are intended mainly for young people.

Double-breasted vest suits are not provided. A pair of rows of buttons lends an unusual touch. Regardless of this feature, double-breasted suits are considered classic. They are no less formal than single-breasted ones.

The lapels of the jacket are pointed and directed upwards. There are two splines on the back. Classic suits usually have six buttons. Of these, the decorative function is performed by the top two. Less formal are the four-button models, however. It is also not customary to fasten the bottom button in double-breasted jackets.

In the three-piece version, all things are made of the same material. Men in such an ensemble look stylish, standing out from the crowd. The model is worth the money: it is always fashionable. Nobody cancels the dress code, and according to it a strict suit is an attribute of a respectable company. And it would never occur to anyone to get a job in casual clothes.

The vest adds harmony, increases presentability. Costumes made to order are especially successful. They serve their owners in an extremely respectable manner.

There are two options for vests: a closed first in front with a deep cut and an open one. The latter has a deep cut in front, lapels. Outwardly, the model looks like a full-fledged vest. The tie closed with a small cut reveals quite a bit.

Purpose

It is customary to wear a suit for official events, business meetings, you can wear it every day.

Official

Formal models include a business card suit. It is worn in exceptional cases.

· The bottom of the garment is complemented by a cone-shaped cutout due to narrowing of the sides.

· Only one button can be fastened.

· They wear such a suit only with white shirts, black boots and a bow tie.

· The back is slightly longer than the front.

In the evening, they wear club suits or tuxedos. In this kit:

· Elongated satin lapels;
· Buttons one, maximum two;
· One or two-breasted are acceptable;
· The image is complemented by a light or white scarf in the pocket;
· Wear with a white shirt, bow tie and black trousers.

The parade option is a tailcoat. They wear it only on special occasions. Features:

· Folds are shortened at the front and lengthened at the back.
· It is accepted to wear exclusively with snow-white shirts.
· Compulsory black shoes, white tie and vest.
· A high belt is required in trousers. The pants are tight, with satin double stripes on the sides.
· It is not customary to wear a belt.
· Complement the costume with a white scarf in the pocket and white gloves on the hands.

Informal

The idea of ​​clothing has changed markedly. Increasingly, men dress even for official events the way they previously allowed themselves only on weekends.

An informal suit is a suit made of different colors of trousers and a jacket. Relaxation of color and structure of the fabric play the main role. So, casual is characterized by things from modernized and open materials. These are voluminous, lightweight fabrics.

In comparison with classic textiles, they do not differ in the durability of the weave. Such things are designed for one season, and therefore they do not impose excessive requirements on them.

Classical

The name of a classic suit means "three", the difference is noticeable in the number of buttons.

A one-button suit is intended for stage entrances and casino visits. Often show business people appear in such clothes. Business meetings do not include such kits. Be sure to button up.

Two buttons sewn on a conservative jacket. It is he who is intended for a business meeting. It is customary to fasten the top button.

Three-button closure implies a top lapel cover. Loop for such a fastener on the wrong side, processing is done on each side. Fasten either one middle button, or the middle one from the top.

Sports models include four buttons. Usually the jacket is supplemented with patch pockets. Lapels are smaller than regular lapels. There are lightweight, cashmere, cotton options. They have no padding, shoulder pads.

Often the use of unusual materials for sewing. The clothes are informal.

Cut

Models differ in cut. There are several main types:

· English;
· French;
· Italian;
· German;
· European.

In English, the severity and simplicity of the lines is expressed. Usually the color of the clothes is soft and calm. The set looks classically elegant. Sometimes there is a pair of buttons, split lapels on the sides, a pair of vents. It is customary to wear pleated trousers with a jacket.

A slightly sloping shoulder line, small shoulder pads are characteristic. The line of the shoulder and back of a man in a suit is even, the figure looks fit and slender. The option is universal, regardless of body size and age. Side slits allow you to keep your hands in pockets.

The French-cut suit is narrowed at the hips, the length is shortened. There is a volumetric chest line, rounded shoulders. The double-breasted version has one button near the waist, wide lapels. The cut visually stretches the silhouette, adds grace.

A cropped suit with a narrowed waist fits slightly. Usually, such options are worn by men who are short to appear taller.

Free and stylish men appreciate the German style. Goth English cut is slightly baggy. However, the set looks impressive: it is sewn with high quality, the fabric is expensive.

There is a deep armhole in the sleeves, the sleeves themselves are wide and spacious. The fabric is woolen and good quality. It does not wrinkle, as a special technology is used in production. Such a suit will last a very long time.

Some models have buttons on the sleeves. The costume is not cheap, as all the loops are made by hand, taking into account specific client requirements. The option is ideal for men of average build.

An Italian single-breasted suit with three buttons and a pair of side vents, featuring slightly widening and raised shoulders. Notched lapels, frame welt pockets.

Double-breasted models are distinguished by a close-fitting silhouette, narrow shoulders. Buttons are set high. There is a small volume along the chest line

Straight-leg trousers along the entire length. The fabric used for sewing is light, sometimes the presence of a pattern is permissible. The costume looks unique. Any build is suitable for an ensemble. The model successfully hides figure flaws, and therefore is recommended even for overweight men.

The American version is quite comfortable and convenient. These are informal clothes, even casual ones. The model lacks a clear silhouette. There is no thickening along the shoulder line, roll-up of sleeves is permissible.

The armhole of the set is free, the jacket is narrowed at the waist. Slightly rounded lapels. There are wide gaps between them. There is a single slot, the pockets are padded with flaps.

The double-breasted version features deep lapels. There is a second button below the waistline. Wide trousers are gathered under the waist in pleats. The model is ideal for overweight men, as it guarantees comfort and freedom. However, this option is completely unsuitable for special occasions.

The European costume is distinguished by its adherence to the traditional English cut. The set is slightly modified, more simplified. In the jacket, the shoulders are slightly widened, the length of the jacket itself is increased.

Trousers are quite voluminous and loose. There are no slots in both single and double-breasted models. Wide lapels. They wear exceptionally wide ties with such a jacket. It is customary to fasten the bottom buttons to emphasize the waist.

The suit is inconvenient as it is imperative to unbutton it before landing. Suitable for slim and tall young men with a good figure.

This season's costume

It is difficult to say definitely which suit is called fashionable and which is not. New models appear annually. They differ in color and pattern. The wardrobe has to be updated constantly. To save money, it makes sense to purchase only unique models. They will not lose their relevance over the years.

At all times, the concept of a fashionable suit was subjective. If at the very beginning of civilization masculinity was emphasized by a skin thrown over the body, then the Middle Ages made armor the most fashionable costume. France during the time of Louis introduced into fashion numerous headbands, lace, bows on men's clothing.

All modern costumes are classic to one degree or another. This type of clothing has been occupying the top of the fashion pedestal for a long time and firmly, and even in the long term it is not going to go into the shadows.

The most relevant shades of the season are emerald green. Glittering green under the evening lights, models are represented by many famous houses. There are also quieter matte options. They fit perfectly into everyday life.

The color blue remains relevant. Graduation is simply unthinkable without such a suit. Cranberry red is very original in a suit for a man. However, designers offer models that combine black and red tones. Brown suit from Canali and a single color model from Bally.

Greater impartiality is provided by the gray tone. The model with trousers with arrows looks amazing. Collections converged on almost identical color solutions. There are also traditional black and white versions, oriental ornaments, abstraction, psychedelic.

In men's suits, the cage of all variations is noticeable. The autumn season is offered by suits of red-black or yellow-black solutions. Designers seek to break stereotypes by proclaiming that men must look luxurious, catchy, and bright. Bohemianism has become one of the leading trends. Therefore, the upper steps of the pedestal are occupied by velvet suits.

The softly iridescent fabric has given classic suits a new dimension. The leading fashion houses offer all shades of black, green, wine, purple and brown. Stylists have adapted the capricious material for a modern cut. As a result, suits for men were perfect for evening looks.

Achievements were especially clearly demonstrated Bottega veneta... At the show, models paraded in suits in a deep sea-green shade with deep tints. Dolce & gabbana offers a casual style to complement Victorian velvet jackets with plaid shirts.

From Gieves & hawkes there was a proposal to fit navy blue velvet into relaxed urban looks. Designers have also experimented with traditional "threes". As a result, a wide variety of color variations, shapes, unexpected additions and original decor appeared. A plaid suit is a statement of your own style. The costumes are experiencing a new takeoff this season. Plaid is an English classic, the ability to combine clothes with democratic things.

In collections Jeremy Hacketta, Bottega Aineta and Ted Biker the realization of the incarnations of fashionable youth is traced. Fashion designers are unanimous that the cage brings aristocracy, style and authenticity to a suit for a man.

Suits with patches are in trend. These can be round or oval patches. Various inserts and figures on this part are acceptable. The patches sewn to the elbows are made of suede, leather and other equally dense materials. Matching in shades with the lines of the pocket is required.

The double-breasted suit is not going to leave the fashion world at all. Moreover. New interesting models are proposed. Looks great option with trousers with folds at the waist, cuffs at the ankles. A jacket without such details looks heavier and more pretentious.

Shirts with a "stand" look great with such a suit, but they are better with a wide collar. An amazing addition is a tie or bow tie. But the dimensions of such accessories are extremely important.

Pocket squares are an excellent alternative to a tie. This replacement is especially justified when changing a shirt to a turtleneck.

The double-breasted model was and remains a classic. Regardless of the presence of pockets, collars and decor, a man in such a suit always looks stylish and bright.

How to choose a suit

The classic business suit fully complies with the Cocktail, Business, Black Tee dress codes. When choosing a model, attention is paid to the material, shape and color of the kit.

Color

Classic things are distinguished by black, blue, gray, brown or gray-blue color. For winter, choose dark tones, lighter - summer options. Black suits are worn on special occasions.

Executives choose blue models. Such a decision commands respect and increases authority. Brown suits are good for increasing the trust of subordinates. But the most versatile option is a gray suit.

A large cell is in trend, but this option is far from universal. With high growth and a slender figure, the drawing is suitable, other cases require caution. The strip will lengthen the silhouette. In a suit, a man looks taller and slimmer. The composition of the fabric deserves attention. Such information is stated on a tag that is sewn to the product from the inside.

The cost of a thing largely depends on the material. Better to stay on a suit of one hundred percent wool or cashmere. Inscription "Virgin wool" confirms: non-recyclable wool. New Zealand or Australian merino sheep produce the best wool. This fabric has the SUPER mark. The most valuable wool is obtained from the wild vicuna.

Mixing cashmere with wool, silk, mohair gives great lightness to the material. Mixed fabrics are used for summer models. Marking preferred Cool Wool.

Modern synthetics allow suits longer to crumple and increase wear resistance. It's good that the fabric contains lycra and elastane. But the content should not exceed seven percent. Pills are formed with a higher viscose content.

Pay attention to the lining. For her, fabrics are chosen that are smooth and thin. Expensive models are made with silk lining. But it is difficult to remove sweat stains from it. More convenient options are from cupro, acetate, viscose and mixtures of these materials. They are hygroscopic, wear-resistant and soft.

Blazer

A classic business jacket does not include patch pockets. Only slotted ones with addition of valves are allowed. The hand construction along the edge of the model's collar looks very stylish.

It is very important to take into account the height and size when choosing. The jacket should fit the figure. Haste in choosing is useless. Things are expensive, they serve for more than one season. So the time spent looking for the perfect solution will pay off handsomely. And the only quality item in the wardrobe is better than seven cheap ones.

When choosing a jacket, be sure to look at the lapels. They should be tight. The shoulders of the thing should be located exactly on the shoulders. No folds, vertical or horizontal, should be between the shoulder blades.

Jacket sleeves should reach the outer wrist bone. It is permissible for a shirt to look out of the sleeve by a maximum of two and a half centimeters. Overly long or too short sleeves give the impression of a suit from someone else's shoulder.

The middle button should be at the level of the navel. But with its help it is permissible to adjust the length of the legs. Slightly above normal - visual lengthening of the legs. A slot completes the bottom of the elbow seam of the sleeve. It is permissible to unbutton one or two buttons to demonstrate that the costume is sewn according to all traditions.

A classic-length jacket must cover the buttocks. The bottom of the product is parallel to the floor. The rear slot should not diverge. Two back slots allow you to wear the jacket in English, putting your hands in your pockets without unbuttoning.

The bottom button of the jacket should not be fastened. It is customary to completely unbutton the thing when they sit down. Rising, the jacket is buttoned again. It is not customary to walk in an unbuttoned jacket, even in a three-piece suit.

Pants

The width of classic trousers does not exceed three quarters of the length of the shoe. Loose models in the style of "great Gatsby" are not acceptable for men of medium and short stature. The figure in these trousers looks even lower.

· The arrow on the trousers should be clearly in the middle of the leg. Otherwise, visually, the legs seem to be crooked.
· Before going to the store, measurements are taken to save time.
· Correct length - when the trousers in the front, going down to the boots, form a small fold. The back of the correct trousers is one and a half to two centimeters longer than the front.
· Shortened models are designed for amateurs from the very beginning, they are optional.
· The suit needs maintenance. Depending on the frequency and regularity of wearing, items can be dry cleaned. Wool does not like water.
· Even the most expensive suits will fail to create a positive impression of the wearer if the suit looks unkempt or overly worn.

You can use the service of tailoring the suit. This option should not be abandoned. The service is offered by all good shops. The master will adjust the jacket and trousers to the figure.

The choice of a brand depends on finances and preferences. Luxury brands include Brioni and CORNELIANI... Quality items are sold in stores TOMMY HILFIGER and HUGO BOSS... Suits manufactured by the Bolshevichka factory are of good quality.

What to wear with a suit

For a classic suit, a shirt is selected in a light or white tone. Do not button the bottom button of the jacket. Wear classic shoes with a casual business suit. Suitable for brogues, oxfords, monks, loafers or chelsea.

Material

Jeans options are enough. The most famous is denim, one of the most expensive materials. It is made of cotton, intertwining two threads, white and dyed.

· The difference from the denim of the broken twill is in a special kind of weaving: a herringbone pattern is formed.
· Stretch fabric is obtained after adding elastic fibers. After this addition, the fabric is stretched.
· The most budgetary options include gin. Only budget cheap models are sewn from it.
· Light denim clothes are made of chambri, light and thin fabric.
· An unpainted variety of jeans is called aykru. The fabric looks like an unbleached natural cotton fabric.

Pants models

Pants styles are varied. Shorts and overalls are rare. Straight trousers are more common. They are versatile, practical, and go well with a variety of tops and situations. However, such jeans will not hide figure flaws.

Skinny jeans with a low fit are popular for several seasons. They are longer than the generally accepted norm, and therefore they are collected in an "accordion" at the bottom. The style is far from universal. He is good only on very young skinny guys. Wear trousers with a bulky top, a jacket is best.

Baggy jeans are more relaxed. The highest popularity of these pants dates back to the nineties of the last century. Cargo or carpentry pants are distinguished by a loose fit, straight silhouette. Special hinges are provided for attaching and carrying the hammer. There are also rectangular long pockets for tools.

Top

Options are likely in the form of jackets, shirts, vests or jackets. There are several models in each section.

The jacket is one of the most relevant. The classic denim jacket has a pair of pockets on the chest, there is a stitched belt at the bottom of the garment. The model has a turn-down collar. Fittings in the form of metal rivets, buttons, and special stitching are characteristic.

A classic jacket is worn with loose or straight jeans. The youth options include a model with a denim or jersey hood. Artificial scuffs, decorative patches will perfectly fit into the youth style.

For bikers, there are models with oblique zippers. Metal rivets and zippers are used for decoration. The model with knitted sleeves looks very cozy. In such a jacket it is good in cool weather. Jackets vary in length. The classic almost reaches the thighs. There are both shorter and longer options.

A denim shirt is another hot option. The fabric distinguishes it from the jacket. Take a lighter one than for a jacket. There is no stitched belt in the model. The most relevant are shirts with through fasteners or polo fasteners. They are worn either over the top or separately.

The most common option is the long sleeve. However, summer wear involves rolling up to the elbow. In summer suits, shirts with short sleeves are assumed. The vest is a rarer option. Outwardly, it looks like a mix of shirt and jacket, but without sleeves. Therefore, they complement the suit with a shirt, T-shirt or turtleneck.

A denim jacket is on the verge of casual and classic. Dark suits are also worn for work in the absence of a strict dress code. In such a denim suit, a free style is successfully manifested.

There are fitted models. They are completed with one or two buttons at the waist. Loose things of a straight cut are complemented by pockets. Their number ranges from two to four. Jackets are decorated with buttons, rivets, metal, belts or shoulder straps.

Color

The most common remains the traditional blue or indigo. All shades are acceptable. This is followed by black and gray. Colored suits are less relevant, but unusual models will allow you to stand out from the crowd. Purple, green or burgundy options are acceptable.

What to wear with

Denim suit belongs to the casual style. Therefore, the additions are appropriate.

· The ideal solution is a shirt. Both a cage and a single-color model are acceptable.

Insulated suits require appropriate footwear. Chelsea boots or lace-up shoes will do. Bags with long shoulder straps will be appropriate. A comfortable leather backpack will also be useful.

You can wear a light blue suit. The trousers in it are straight, a comfortable jacket in a classic style. With him, stylists advise wearing a black and white vest slightly longer than a jacket. The sleeve of the latter is slightly rolled up so that the sleeves of the vest are visible. Black and white sneakers with a black baseball cap complete the look.

With a stylish suit in a free style, tapered trousers are worn with a shirt partially tucked into a belt. The front floor is left straightened on one side. Complement the look with a light brown leather belt and brown brogues.

The fashion for elegance never fades away. Therefore, there must be a suit in the wardrobe. It is necessary for office work, to comply with business etiquette. Appearance helps in career growth. Trust evokes a respectable look and an emanation of confidence.

From season to season, the shape of a high-quality suit hardly changes. Therefore, a classic copy should be in the wardrobe, although in a single copy. And you won't have to puzzle over the ensemble: just choose a shirt to get a complete stylish look.

A suit is an integral part of a wardrobe, both for men and women. Regardless of what a man is wearing to work, a stylish set must be in the closet. Despite the fact that many believe such an image can only be a classic style. There are different options for suits for all occasions.

Men's suits are distinguished by configuration, style and purpose.

By configuration

According to the configuration, there are two and three. The two-piece includes trousers and a single / double breasted jacket. A single-breasted product is the most convenient and demanded one. It has one row of buttons on the right and one row of loops on the left. Has a classic fit.

The double-breasted version of the two-piece is a classic men's jacket, similar in style to a single-breasted one, however, the buttons are arranged in two rows. The jacket has a strict, restrained style.

A three-piece differs from a two-piece in the number of items included in the suit. A vest is also added to the trousers and jacket. In the classic version, all three items are made of the same material and the same color. Recently, however, designers prefer to experiment and combine a vest with trousers and jackets of different colors.

By style

Classic suits come in three styles. The English version has a tapered cut and a high waist. There are single-breasted and double-breasted models. There are slots on the back of the jacket for convenience. In stores, you can find English versions of the three and two.

Italian style is a combination of minimalism and strict straight lines. Single-breasted Italian models are usually made. The trousers have a wide classic cut. There is no slot on the jacket. Italian models are very sophisticated. They are made from expensive natural materials. They look great on slender tall men.

The third classic style of classic suits is the American version. Its main advantage is wearing comfort. The product has a classic loose fit. They are made without shoulder pads, so the model fits well on a man's shoulder. Usually the jacket is fastened with 2-3 buttons. American models are suitable for short men of average build.

By appointment

By design, there are 4 types of suits.

The well-known classic is a three, which, depending on the number of buttons, has a different purpose:

• One button - such a model is not suitable for the office, it is better to wear the model for a holiday or a party.
• Two - a model designed for office and business meetings.
• Three - costumes designed for special occasions, going to a romantic dinner or a non-business meeting.
• Four - with this number of buttons, sports jackets are usually made. They are informal and can be worn for a party or social gathering.

A tuxedo is the most common type of product for special occasions. This is a special type of clothing that is distinguished by its elegance, sophistication and beauty. The set includes a jacket that cannot be fastened or is fastened with one button and has wide cuffs on the chest. The trousers have a loose fit. Usually a tuxedo comes with a vest or sash. Models have a wide variety of colors, and are suitable for both full and slender men.

Tailcoat is a stylish universal option that has not lost its popularity for many centuries. The tailcoat is shortened in front and elongated in the back. It is customary to wear classic black patent leather shoes, a bow tie and tapered trousers with the product.

A casual-style suit is distinguished by its originality. The main feature of this style is a wide selection of colors and fabrics. Unlike classic models, casual suits are distinguished by their lightness. Trousers and a suit come in a loose sports cut.

By season

Men's suits must be selected not only by style and purpose, but also by season. For a warm season, you can choose two pieces of a classic cut or an American look. They look good with summer shoes. In cold weather, opt for tighter suits. It is best to choose a three, as it is warmer and looks good with low shoes. It is better to refuse a tuxedo and tailcoat at this time of year.

A suit is a thing that should be in the wardrobe of every man. It will be indispensable at a gala event, a business meeting or a romantic dinner. Due to the variety of styles, men of different types will be able to find their own version.

Traditions section publications

A brief history of men's fashion in the 18th - early 20th centuries

In conjunction with the Kultura.RF portal, we recall how the male appearance has changed over the course of several centuries.

Lush outfits and dandies-pettimeters

Suit of Peter I. Everyday caftan, camisole. Semi-silk, woolen fabric, linen ribbed fabric, fringe. The beginning of the 18th century Photo: reenactor.ru

Men's caftan. XVIII century Photo: mylitta.ru

Costume of Peter I. Festive caftan, camisole, trousers. Cloth, satin, cotton bike, silk thread, embroidery. The turn of the XVII - XVIII centuries. Photo: reenactor.ru

For a very long time - until the 18th century - a man's suit was not inferior to a woman's in brightness and an abundance of decorative details. The clothes of that era were different from the modern ones, but the basis of the men's three-piece suit was already formed then. Today it is a jacket, vest and trousers, and in the 18th century - a caftan, camisole and culottes.

The caftan, as a rule, was sewn so that it tightly wrapped around the torso to the waist, but the knee-length floors were wide. The cuffs on the long sleeves were also spacious. The caftan did not have a collar, the outer garment was only partially buttoned or not buttoned at all: a jacket was visible under it. He almost completely repeated the style of the caftan, but was usually sleeveless.

Culottes, as they were called in France, are short pants, the prerogative of noble and wealthy people. During the French Revolution, the rebellious commoners were called "sans-culottes", that is, "culottes": they wore long trousers, which were comfortable to work in.

Casual men's suits were made of wool and cloth, ceremonial suits were made of velvet, silk, and satin. The tailors tried to emphasize almost all details of the caftan and camisole with decor - embroidery, gold and silver lace, and the cuffs and collar of the shirt were trimmed with lace.

Men, like women, wore a shirt under the camisole. At that time, she played a very important hygienic role, because often the rest of the clothes made of expensive fabrics could not be washed. Aristocrats preferred shirts made of thin snow-white linen. Stockings were worn with short pants; white ones were also considered the most elegant.

European aristocrats paid much attention not only to clothing, but also to shoes and accessories. Shoes with high heels by modern standards were decorated with buckles. Boots were also worn, but less often: they were shoes for travel, travel and hunting. A wig, abundantly dusted with powder, was put on the head. The most popular type is a faux hairstyle with tightly curled locks on the sides and a ponytail tied in a black bow. Keeping a wig clean and well-groomed was difficult, but it's still easier than styling your own long hair. The costume was completed with a cocked hat, a long cloak and many decorative details: gloves, a snuff box, a cane, rings and other ornaments. The fees for the publication of the then dandy, or, as they were called in France, "petimeter", took a little less time than the lady.

"The Great Male Denial" and the dandy

Men's suit. Tailcoat. XVIII century Photo: letopis.info

Men's suit. XVIII century Photo: costumehistory.ru

Men's suit. Jacket. The beginning of the 19th century. Photo: foto-basa.com

By the end of the 18th century, fashionable clothing had become both simpler and more comfortable. Although France was the trendsetter in that era, in the field of men's clothing this role gradually passed to England. Unlike the French aristocrats, who mostly spent their time at the royal court, English gentlemen lived on their country estates for most of the year, and the most popular pastimes were horse racing and hunting. This required an appropriate suit. Men began to wear frock coats - robes similar to caftans, but simple and loose. They were equipped with both a collar and clasps - convenient protection from the weather.

Later, a tailcoat came into fashion - a kind of frock coat with cut-off floors. Over time, the tailcoat floors became narrower and narrower, and gradually turned into coattails. And on caftans, and on frock coats, and on tailcoats, an incision was made in the back so that it was convenient to ride. Under the tailcoat they wore not a long camisole, but a short vest, which was already very reminiscent of a modern one. And gradually the suit for an active lifestyle turned into an elegant urban one.

The silhouette of the suit changed as a whole: it became more and more elongated. And along with him, the ideals of male beauty changed. A slender and fit figure was now becoming a subject of pride.

At the end of the 18th century, men abandoned brocade and silk and began to wear only woolen and cloth robes. Gone are the luxurious trimmings, lace on shirts, powdered wigs, and cocked hats. Soon short pants were also "canceled" - they, like white stockings, began to be worn only on the most solemn occasions, for example, to a ball. In everyday life, we switched to long pants: first, tight-fitting pantaloons, and then the trousers we are used to today. This was the time that is sometimes called the "great man's rejection" - the rejection of the colorful suit.

First in England, and then in the rest of Europe, dandyism arose - a cultural canon that included both costume and demeanor. The dandies were distinguished by restraint and refined laconic attire. The former luxury was replaced by minimalism. But every detail of the elegant suit - the color of the vest, the fabric of the shirt, the knot of the tie - has been carefully thought out. At the same time, it was supposed to look at ease, as if the selection of a suit did not cost its owner any effort. The famous Pushkin line “you can be an efficient person and think about the beauty of your nails” speaks of such an important component of a dandy's life as self-care. Sleek, perfectly shaven, in an immaculately snow-white shirt, slender - this is the image that men of the first quarter of the 19th century aspired to.

In the 19th century, men's costume changed slowly, details played an important role in it. The tailcoat has become the most important wardrobe item, appropriate in any situation. Over time, the width of the lapels, the shoulder line and the length of the folds changed, but in general it remained the same. In addition to frock coats and tailcoats, men began to wear business cards - a cross between these two robes. The cylinder has become the most fashionable headdress for more than half a century. And the funny word "gibberish", familiar to many from childhood, actually means a special cylinder with a hidden spring. The high headdress could be folded so that it did not interfere when the man entered the room. The only relatively bright item in the wardrobe was the vests. Sewn from velvet or silk fabrics, including patterned ones, they contrasted with dark tailcoats and light-colored trousers. There were an incredible number of ways to tie a tie, and one or the other were in fashion.

Restrained classics and "graceful men"

Men's suit. 2nd floor XIX century. Photo: mir-kostuma.com

Men's suit. 2nd floor XIX century. Photo: mir-kostuma.com

By the 1840s, the tailcoat began to move into the category of ceremonial, evening dress, and a more comfortable frock coat became everyday clothes. Ten years later, the jacket began to replace it. Gradually, the functionality of the clothes took up and a man's suit was formed, similar to the modern one. The "hero of the time" was a business man, for whom the main thing was convenience. Since the middle of the 19th century, elegant fabrics have completely disappeared from the men's suit. Even vests have now become restrained, they were usually sewn to match the color of the trousers. A three-piece suit appeared, in which all three items are sewn from the same material. The collars of the shirts, formerly high and uncomfortable, have dropped, and the ties, which were until then neckerchiefs, have turned into narrow strips of fabric. Outerwear has also changed: instead of voluminous capes and raincoats, a coat has come into fashion. Cylinders were still worn, but with the advent of the bowler hat - a hat with a rounded, very rigid crown - they became an accessory exclusively for evening wear. In a word, the system of everyday and evening dress has developed, which exists to this day.

Over time, clothing became more and more loose, because, among other things, sports began to influence it. The men began to wear cropped trousers, blazers, jackets, tweed jackets, soft castor hats and straw boaters. The tuxedo has appeared as a kind of evening dress.

Once formed, the basic men's wardrobe changed slowly: the classic suit became quite comfortable, its cut well masked figure flaws. In addition, it was almost universal - both modest officials and aristocrats could wear a suit.

Ready-to-wear factories have made fashionable modern clothing more accessible and widespread. Therefore, the dandies at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries had to think over the details of their costume even more carefully than the petitemeters and dandies. There were many nuances of what and in what situation was appropriate to wear. There were even special articles and editions with instructions like the "Handbook of an elegant man." However, even at the beginning of the twentieth century, it was not enough to read it and order a good wardrobe for a tailor - one could not do without talent and taste or position in society.

And although it seems that a lot has changed since then, a modern man, if he only agrees to look at fashion seriously, can find a lot in common between himself and the fashionistas of the past.

The history of men's costume: from the 18th to the beginning of the 20th century