How to make bobbins for floss. Storage patterns and ideas. Methods for storing floss: order in the threads is paramount! Cardboard reels
Some embroiderers prefer to embroider only sets. And some embroider only according to patterns, selecting threads from their stocks. But both of them accumulate stocks of floss threads over time. These could be tails from sets, or they could be completely new skeins. And sooner or later the question arises: how to store these wealth so that it is compact, convenient and easy to use, and also not expensive.
There are different ways to store floss. We'll talk about them.
Plastic bobbins
The most common way to store floss is in plastic spools. They are sold in any craft store, as well as in online stores. They are distinguished by their lightness, compactness and reliability, and also by the fact that they can be used repeatedly. There are special notches at the bottom of the bobbin to secure the thread, which prevents it from unwinding.
Plastic reels from Gamma
To indicate the number, the needlewoman pastes a branded skein label onto the bobbin or wraps it tightly with thread. But there are also special stickers with floss numbers.
Stickers with numbers of DMC floss
You can make the stickers yourself: print out the checklist of the desired brand of floss on special self-adhesive printer paper.
Cardboard reels
A similar option are cardboard bobbins. Of course, they are less durable than plastic ones. These reels are also sold in stores (be careful: reels from different manufacturers may vary in cardboard thickness).
DMC cardboard reels
You can make cardboard bobbins for floss with your own hands. Take any thick cardboard and draw bobbins on it. You can use a ready-made template and simply print it on cardboard (the photo enlarges when you click):
Blank for bobbins
The number on cardboard reels can be signed with a pen or felt-tip pen (if you use different brands of thread, it is very convenient to use different colors for signing).
Please note: the bobbins have a hole at the top. It is designed to store several spools that are used in a specific job. You can buy a ring for stringing bobbins at a craft store along with the bobbins themselves, or you can be smart and use hoop earrings)
DMC ring bobbins
Bobbins strung on a hoop earring
Floss wound on plastic or cardboard bobbins is conveniently stored in containers or boxes. There are, of course, special organizers for floss. But many embroiderers buy “trifle boxes” in hardware or fishing stores (they are much cheaper) or use ordinary boxes, for example, from candies.
Use a candy box as an organizer for floss
Some needlewomen do
Before laying out the floss threads in the organizer, carefully consider the principle: for some it is more convenient to arrange them by numbers, and for others by shades!
Bones and plastic files
There are special bones for floss, on which a whole skein can be conveniently placed (no need to rewind anything).
Bones for floss from Gamma
Then these bones are folded into special plastic files and attached to a folder.
The biggest disadvantage of seeds is that it is quite difficult to store small pieces of pasta or individual threads on them. So this method is more suitable for camping conditions: for example, on a trip. In addition, there is no lock on the bones to secure the thread, as a result of which the ends constantly unwind, and the skeins themselves can slide off the bones, since the plastic is quite flexible.
Snap bags
With this storage method, supplies will take up much more space. But in such a bag it is convenient to store both already started skeins and leftovers. A label with the thread number is placed in the bag or glued to the top.
According to well-known folk wisdom, order in things is order in the head! And although the concept of “artistic disorder” also has a right to life, it is difficult to argue with the fact that it is best to keep working tools and accessories in perfect order so that you can find what you need without difficulty and loss of time.
If you really love to embroider, then at some point you will inevitably discover that there are so many multi-colored skeins of floss, completely unnoticed by you, that storing them as before - be it in a bag or in a cardboard box - becomes inconvenient. And then you finally wonder how to store embroidery threads so that the storage organization is not only neat and convenient, but also aesthetically pleasing.
1. Bobbins
One of the most common ways to store floss is in bobbins made from different materials, from plastic to cardboard. You can find them in any craft store, and once you try this method of storing floss once, you are unlikely to want to give it up: plastic bobbins are light, compact, durable, and also have special notches for securing the thread so that it does not unwind. You can write color numbers on adhesive stickers, buy ready-made stickers, or write them directly on the reel.
Be prepared for the fact that you will need a lot of bobbins. If you don’t want to spend money on store-bought ones, you can make thread spools with your own hands.
How to make bobbins for floss
Materials:
- One plastic reel (as sample)
- Cardboard
- Paper scraps for scrapbooking
- Scissors
- Pencil
- Rubber glue
- Hole puncher
Step 1
Trace a sample reel on cardboard. Leave a small space between diagrams for convenience.
Step 2
Cut the cardboard into squares, coat the reverse side with glue and stick the workpiece on the inside of the scrap paper.
Step 3
Trim off excess paper.
Step 4
Using handy scissors, cut out the workpiece and make holes with a hole punch.
Source: thistleandleaves.com
If ordinary bobbins seem too boring to you, even for your discerning taste there is an option, ranging from curly bobbins made of the same cardboard to... ice cream sticks! It is enough to show a little imagination, and then even banal clothespins can turn out to be quite a convenient way to store floss.
Photo: sugarcookie, Minted Strawberry, Wild Olive, Little White Whale
2. Bones
This method of storing threads has one undeniable advantage - you do not need to rewind the threads. Otherwise, the option is very similar to bobbins.
Some companies, for example, DMC, offer convenient organizers-albums for floss with bones.
3. Holder for floss
In English, such a “device” is called more precisely - project card, that is, “project card”: such a holder is most often used in direct work on a specific embroidery - you transfer the necessary colors into it in the right quantity, so that when you return to work, you will not each time you were forced to re-find where you put the necessary threads. By the way, embroidery machines often come with a wooden panel with drilled holes for the same purposes.
There is also a more advanced version of this project card, for example, the Pako organizer.
Such a holder, firstly, is designed for a large number of colors, which is very convenient, secondly, hard foam allows you to securely fix the threads, thirdly, you can provide each color with special symbols corresponding to the symbols on your pattern (if you cross-stitch) , and, finally, fourthly, you can keep the needles and threads in place, and they do not stick in, they are carefully inserted next to each symbol. With such a device you will definitely save time, but at the same time its cost is quite high.
4. Containers and boxes
Perhaps the most common method, since in handicraft stores you can find a huge variety of plastic containers with dividers, with which storing even large volumes of floss becomes simple and convenient.
As a budget option, boxes (from shoes or, say, from IKEA) into which you can insert homemade dividers are quite suitable. Alternatively, you can use a tool box.
5. Chests
Formally, this is a variation of a standard container, but here the aesthetic component comes to the fore! Large manufacturers of handicraft goods, for example, the same DMC, offer luxurious wooden chests, which, of course, are exactly as expensive as they seem from the outside.
6. Cork board
Do you prefer more extravagant methods? Then try making storage an element of interior design. This means that you do not need to hide and put away handicraft supplies in the closet, but rather, place them in the most visible place. A cork board (or better yet, several at once) on the wall will do the job perfectly.
7. Pencil case
Its principle is similar to a project card, since it is most convenient to use such pencil cases for working on individual projects. Suitable for boned floss.
8. Open closet
You are unlikely to find such a cabinet on sale, so you will either have to work hard yourself or make it to order. A stunning decoration for your sewing room!
9. Files and packages
A simple and affordable way in which your threads are always separated by color and do not gather dust. To do this, you will need special files for coins, divided into segments.
10. Glass jars
Rather, it is suitable for those threads that are somehow out of your main collection - old, without numbers, running out, etc.
Whatever option you ultimately choose, the main thing is to have fun working, even if you are working in complete creative chaos!
Every needlewoman knows that storing and using floss in skeins is not very convenient. The fact is that the fewer threads remain in the skein, the greater the likelihood that they will begin to tangle and tie into knots. Constant unraveling of threads degrades their quality and slows down work. In order to avoid this, it is recommended to rewind the floss onto bobbins or bones.
The bobbins are:
Cardboard;
Plastic.
Plastic bobbins are light, compact and quite reliable, they can be used repeatedly. These bobbins have notches to secure the thread and prevent unwinding. Cardboard spools are less durable than plastic ones, and from time to time you will have to make or buy new ones. To determine the number of the floss, before winding the thread, you can stick a branded label on the bobbin with the number from the skein itself or wrap it tightly with thread, as shown in the photo. You can purchase special stickers with floss numbers. You can sign the floss number on cardboard bobbins without resorting to additional means. Bobbins can be purchased at specialized craft stores.
If you do not have the opportunity to buy such devices, then you can make them yourself. I suggest you make these little handy little things yourself from ordinary PVC bottles.
You will need materials:
1. plastic bottles for drinks, shampoos, liquid powders
2. scissors
We take empty bottles of drinks, shampoos, liquid powders that you no longer need, and then we create.
1. Wash the bottles thoroughly and remove the stickers from them.
2. Cut out the part that we will use (usually the walls of the bottle).
3. Cut out rectangles (of the size we need).
4. Cut out bobbins from the prepared rectangles. On one side we cut out 2 openings (to secure the threads). We will stick numbers on the second side with tape. For more convenient use, cut out the edges in a semicircle.
5. At the bottom of the bobbin, I make a hole with a hot sharp object (nail) between the openings to secure the thread. For each individual work, I collect the threads according to the key and attach all the necessary threads to a ring or a large pin, as in the photo. And as a result, all the threads for a certain job are collected in one place and you won’t be constantly looking for them.
The idea of making bobbins from plastic bottles came to me suddenly and I really liked it. And since then I have never bought bobbins in stores. I've been using this method for over a year now.
I wish you all good luck and enjoyment in your hobby.
Many embroiderers like to store their threads in an orderly manner, and not in bulk in a box, when the label can come off from the paste, or the threads can get tangled in knots. For the convenience of storing floss, manufacturers offer seeds and bobbins for winding floss (cardboard and plastic). I purchased a budget version of bobbins (also known as cardboard) from a well-known Russian manufacturer of floss and handicraft supplies, the Gamma company, to try.
This set contains 40 cardboard bobbins for winding floss. The set was purchased in a small handicraft department for 60 rubles, as the seller said - from leftovers at the old price. That's why I look into all the departments where floss and related products are sold, because several times I came across nice sales or promotions.
The bobbins are in a plastic blister, on the other side there is cardboard with the manufacturer's information.
Cardboard bobbins are convenient for storing wound threads. For the bobbins, you can adapt some kind of box by inserting thick cardboard partitions - then the bobbin will stand on its edge; some people prefer to store it in a bag.
I thread the beginning of the thread into an oblique cut - a retainer (there are two cuts, visible in the photo), after winding, I also hide the remaining tip in the retainer, it does not stick out or jump out, like from plastic bobbins. Tip: before winding the floss, carefully cut the edges of the cuts; the edges are soldered and if you start to tear them off by hand, the edge may simply tear!
A little time and now the floss is rewound onto a bobbin, the number is signed (and here someone is very good at anything - they sign with a simple pencil, stick on a sticker or write with a marker, like me). Some rewind using a special machine, but after studying a video on rewinding on a machine, I realized that this is a waste of time and money. I rewind it myself or together with my husband.
The bobbins are quite dense, but do not forget that they are made of cardboard - do not give them to small children (they might slobber on them, put them in their mouths or tear them), do not bend them too much, do not place them on a wet/damp surface.
The hole that we see in the photo is made for those who like to store bobbins on a special ring, when the bobbins are strung on a ring, for example, for the current process. In the photo below, for comparison, a plastic bobbin (transparent, with wound threads) and a cardboard one. You can clearly see that the cardboard bobbin is larger in size; I was able to wind 4 (!) 8-meter skeins of floss onto the cardboard bobbin. The cardboard bobbin has deeper and thinner cuts, the tip of the thread does not slip off and holds tightly.
The inscription on a cardboard reel cannot be easily erased, unlike a plastic one, where nail polish remover or makeup remover helps to wipe off the felt-tip pen.
So, cardboard bobbins: cheaper than plastic ones.
40 pcs per set.
The height is about 3.5 by 4.5 cm (larger than the plastic ones).
Durability: cardboard.
Ready for use: you need to pull out the cardboard circle and use scissors to cut the clamps for the ends of the threads.
Possibility of repeated application of text: the applied inscription is not erased (because it is cardboard).
Fixing the tip of the thread: the tip is tightly fixed.
I hope my review helped you understand whether the bobbins will be useful to you or not.
Classification and storage of threads
Classification and storage of threads
For embroidery we use special threads from different palettes and manufacturers. Many creators of embroidery patterns indicate exact thread numbers in the author's key. And most embroiderers have and constantly replenish their thread stocks. After all, it turns out cheaper if we buy threads of the numbers we need in a store, in contrast to embroidering kits, where cutting and preparing threads is taken into account (often many times) in the cost of the kit. And if we have a well-organized storage of threads by numbers, then we can use the pieces of thread remaining after embroidering for other designs.
The most common and popular way to store threads is in boxes, the threads are wound on bobbins. The bobbins are available in cardboard and plastic.
You can make them yourself.
Click on the photo
Save, print and cut
*fondu4ok*
How I store threads: Having bought a batch of threads, I rewind them onto bobbins using a special winder.
When there is a lot of thread, this takes several evenings.
The best bobbins are plastic, or at least thick cardboard ones (I had both those included in the box and homemade ones. As a result, I bought plastic ones and am very pleased).
But it’s better not to even buy stickers for bobbins: they come off at the most inopportune moment and you have to look at the color card to identify the bobbin).
I write numbers with a marker for SD.
I wind a lot on each bobbin: 2 or even three skeins ( more than three won't fit anymore).
Now I'm putting the bobbins into boxes. In numerical order.
Every hundred I start with a new section. I have special VHI boxes for storing bobbins. They turned out to be convenient, and gradually I bought 6 of them.
Three boxes - Workers
. They contain one bobbin with all the threads I have. I push it in quite tightly, but so that I can still get the bobbin out and put it in place. I always have these boxes on hand when I embroider.
Previously, I wrote down which thread number was which in each thread, but then I just remembered and removed the inscriptions.
And three more boxes are Supplies
.
All the repeat reels are there. I stuff it very, very tightly, because... I get it quite rarely. They look exactly the same as Workers, except that the bobbins lie more beautifully, because no one pulls them, does not unwind them, and leaves no tails.
When a color runs out Working box , then I take it out Inventories and transfer it to working. All.
Yes... On the lid of the first box of Supplies I mark the presence of flowers... But... because of laziness, I forget to mark when the color runs out... So my accounting is not very good. 
When embroidering - threads cut into pieces on the RAKO organizer
. When the threads on the organizer are sewn, I replenish them from the Working Box.
Thus, I always have 3 Workboxes and (now) 4 Organizers near me.
At the end of the project, I also wind the remaining threads onto the same bobbins in the Working Boxes.
The boxes are comfortable to carry, convenient to use, and nothing collects dust under the lids. For me this is optimal.
*fevo4ka*
I also store my threads in boxes.
But I only bought a “branded” box from VHI at first, and now I buy regular ones in construction departments (they are 3 times cheaper).
I only rewind threads for specific embroidery into boxes.
The entire palette and those that are not yet needed (supplies) are in bags by number.
I have a separate box for each process. After finishing the embroidery, I put the remains, according to numbering, into “storage” boxes.
If I start a new embroidery project, I look at what I have in storage, plus I buy what’s missing.
I used plastic bobbins, but I like them less than cardboard ones. I connect cardboard ones in twos. Then they are tougher, last a long time, and I write the number on both sides.
*Nadezhda_from_Riga*
I paste it on bobbins under tape numbers cut from the skein label.
I do this gradually, during the embroidery process. As soon as the thread on the bobbin runs out, I take the next skein, cut out the number from the label, stick it with tape on the bobbin and wind the threads.
The numbers on the label are larger than those on the stickers and stick well.
Before starting a new project, I do an audit to find out what and how much needs to be purchased.
On my computer table in excel, in which I enter the number of available skeins. Column where I roughly estimate the number of threads on the bobbins: a - 2/3-1, b - 1/3-2/3, c -<1/3
Another tablet honestly contains the centimeters of thread needed for the projects I plan to embroider. The total number of threads needed is also calculated there. For the sake of reserve, I think that the skein is 500 cm.
*Lilu*
I want to show you mine method of winding floss threads onto bobbins .
For this I use a sewing machine. This method saves a lot of time. You just need to get used to it.
I glued a small cardboard circle to the head, and then a bobbin. The lower part of the bobbin had to be cut off because it was touching the mechanism of the machine.
Now I've gotten the hang of it. I rewind 1 skein in 20 seconds. The main thing is to hold the skein correctly so as not to get tangled.
You can use an electric screwdriver to wind the thread onto the bobbins.
I showed this method
*Murka *
- Maria from Kyiv on the Embroidery forum.
So. If you have a screwdriver (electric screwdriver) at home:
1. Take a device for winding bobbins
2. We disassemble it into parts (easy to do). We need the bobbin holder head itself
4. I secure the empty reel as it should in the holder. I set the screwdriver to minimum speed. And let's go.
With my left hand I guide the thread, and with my right hand I simultaneously hold down the trigger of the screwdriver.
Total: time to wind 1 bobbin is 10-15 seconds maximum. It winds up smoothly. Very useful when you need to wind about 50 bobbins, for example when preparing for a new process.
*Ignatia*
Thanks for the idea of using a screwdriver!
The sewing machine turned out to be inconvenient for me, even though 2 hands seem to be free. But my bobbin winds too quickly, and it’s not easy to reduce the speed. But the screwdriver is just a song!
5 minutes and the skein is unwound into 1 thread
with perfect winding and at the same time winding on a CARDBOARD bobbin, which is my favorite, because it is convenient to sign and it clamps the tail of the thread well. And if there’s anything, you don’t mind throwing it away.
The winding is not very tight, or rather, it can be made to any degree of “tightness”. It's just very convenient! The FIT electric screwdriver, without batteries, can move in both directions, and the manual button is convenient because if it gets a little tangled or tight, you just release it and that’s it.
How to divide a skein of 6 threads one thread at a time?
I put it on my left hand, on my palm, but so that it can rotate on my hand. (Or you need to rotate your hand)
I pull out 1 thread, wrap it with my hands, and now with a screwdriver.
It turns out to be a “sausage”, first collected on the tail of a thread. It must be carefully placed in a flat tray, so that it lies assembled, but not crossed.
Then we pull out a new thread from its tip and wind it. And so 5 times. 
Keep in mind that the thread will definitely get tangled if you throw it on the floor, on the sofa, or anywhere else.
Necessary:
1. Pull it out slowly at the end so that the tail is in the sausage until the last moment
2. Place this sausage flat in the tray, without loops or crosses.
*Dark-skinned girl*
All my threads are stored on bones in plastic DMS files.
When the number of skeins of floss in stock did not exceed about a hundred, I didn’t bother too much. The threads were in a box, and in preparation for the new process I took great pleasure in going through them.
But, further - more, the time has come to approach this issue more seriously, I “climbed” into the wilds of the Internet - who stores the threads, the pros and cons of this or that system, the price of the issue. As a result, I chose probably the most expensive option for myself: bones and branded files.
For about two years, when placing orders in online stores, I always added several files and several packages of seeds to the order. And as a result, now all my floss is stored on stones.
On bobbins - I don’t like it, no matter how easy it is to wind it - it doesn’t matter until the threads “hang” on the organizer, there are creases (they irritate me), although when embroidering the main thread I use a box with bobbins. 
For those works where the design does not require more than 50 colors, I use a DMS folder, where I simply transfer the seeds and threads, and the Pak organizer.
*zlataya*
My thread supply grows gradually over three years of embroidery. I buy threads only for specific embroidery. I will systematize the rest.
Threads Anchor I keep it on special underwire in factory files with pockets. Not very convenient if you had to use it often. And for storage it’s fine.
Remaining threads Dimensions I rewound it from the sets onto reels, also in a cheap box from the construction department.
Here are the most frequently and widely embroidered favorites: VHI strings I store them in the same form as I buy them (it’s lazy to rewind them), in spools with labels on which the number is visible.
I lay out the skeins in numerical order in vertical pockets made on transparent stationery files for papers, and secure them in a binder.
All my thread wealth fits into two large folders that stand on a shelf in the closet.
Each page of the “thread book” consists of 7 pockets. I cut a transparent “file” along the long side near the mounting holes (the usual entrance to the file from above is then sealed).
Pockets before stitched on a sewing machine, lately I've been doing it simpler: “I stamp” using a gear wheel
heated on an electric stove.
I keep the wheel on the stove until it turns a little red. I place the file on a wooden cutting board and, applying a wooden ruler, roll the hot wheel with good pressure. The holes melt all the way through (to the board). The glue holds securely. Tailoring wheels come in different varieties. The teeth on my wheel are quite long and sharp, the distance between the teeth is a couple of millimeters.
For frequently used threads, I find this storage method more convenient.
And for embroidery, I cut the required number of swatches for each specific embroidery and hang them on organizers to each process.
When I finish the embroidery, I remove the remains from the organizer and put the skeins into places (pockets).
That is, before the start and at the end of each process, there is a lot of digging and fussing with strings. Love this process!
I don’t keep any special records of thread availability. I just do a revision before starting a new process: flipping through two folders of threads, checking the key - it doesn’t take much time, but I definitely note exactly which threads need to be purchased and in what quantities.
*Swan*
And I make pockets with a soldering iron. I also have an electric stove. I tried it with a wheel, a knife, and an iron (the iron disappears - then clean the iron).
And a soldering iron is just right. It heats up moderately and solders thinly. I like. You just run it along the ruler and don’t have to take time off to warm it up.
*Alenchik*
I use ready-made special files for photographic films to store threads in a binder.
I buy these at stationery stores.
They are sold one at a time. It's not cheap, but I've been using it for 3 years now - no complaints, very convenient.
*Isiladia*
I tried storing threads in files on the bones - didn’t like it.
Firstly Only 1 skein fits, but I have much more supplies, Secondly pieces of paper with a number are constantly falling off, Thirdly The remnants of threads that are cut are a problem to wind - they come off the bone.
With bobbins It’s the same nonsense - you’ll get tired of dragging around, but over time I’m under a lot of stress - every minute counts, I try to make every movement useful.
And so…
I keep threads for the current process in a regular business card holder with pockets
, on each pocket there is a sticker with a number and an icon.
Current process:
I have a separate business card holder for each process - it’s convenient that all the threads are together and don’t fray and there’s no need to look for it. I have the needles in my needle organizer. 
And for the supply of threads, I came up with the Vault.
I bought small bags (6x8 cm) that close tightly.
Each bag has a sticker with a written number. (such stickers are sold in rolls in office supply stores, it seems they have price tags printed on them)
Using transparent tape, I attached the bags to multifors (transparent A4 “files”), and the multifors into a binder folder.
Now I have my entire supply of thread in one place, each bag holds up to 4 skeins of the same color.
This is what it looks like:
The whole range of DMS
*Reader007*
I also store thread in ziplock thread bags. They cost 4 pounds for 100 pieces, a very convenient size, there is a place for a signature, there is a hole for stringing on a ring.
I immediately cut the purchased threads (working skein), all of the same length.
I fold the sachet 4 times - it turns out to be 2 meters, then another 3 times - it turns out a little more than 60 cm. I immediately cut the whole thing into pieces - and into a bag.
As needed, I take out the already cut thread and attach it to the organizer.
Spare threads are simply in skeins waiting in the wings for “cutting”.
Very convenient to take work with you - I put the right colors on the ring, a piece of paralon for a needle and thread in a bag - and off you go.
Nothing comes off the pins, nothing rubs, and takes up very little space.
Again, you can hang it anywhere, they don’t fall apart or get lost. I am comfortable.
*Ignatia*
The fact is that for a long time I embroidered without the Internet, and then without the “normal” Internet. And I organized embroidery myself, without communicating with other embroiderers.
In addition, I am often on the road, since my work involves business trips, and I am not at home for 3-5-9 days, or even more.
And this is how I came up with a travel thread organizer.
I cut the threads into 1 m lengths, or we take a ready-made thread from the kit and hang it on the holes of the organizer according to the numbers. Round cardboard is made from any available material.
It is very simple to make: we take a blank for a cup holder from RTO, because it turned out to be optimal in diameter, and, of course, there was no compass at home, and under the TV, under some interesting program, we circle it as many times as there are cardboard resources. Cut it out. And we make holes with a regular hole punch. To avoid wasting time, I prepared for many years in advance. We insert the cardboards into the CD wallet.
When I sew, I take out the cardboard, take out the needle and only put the cardboard back halfway. So if I'm distracted from embroidering, I don't even have to think about what color I just sewed. When not in use, the needles are inserted between the holes in the cardboard.
Advantages of my “travel” organizers : Threads are always closed. Nothing frays, gets dirty, or gets lost. If you are distracted and you even have a needle with a cut thread in your hand, then you always know what you sewed with and where to stick it. You don't need any pincushions, and you need very little space to store it all. It is very convenient to hang threads from sets this way, because... they are already cut and there are usually only a few of them. It’s very convenient with lens hoods: we hang it up and don’t deny ourselves anything!
Flaws: Each time you need to pull it out and put it away each time, this takes time. Sometimes the threads get caught on the needles. You can’t remove a lot of threads this way, because... the thickness needs to go somewhere, so sometimes it is necessary to store strategic and tactical reserves of thread separately. It is inconvenient to embroider projects with more than 50 colors from a wallet for discs, even if there are two colors on 1 mug: then you just need 2 or more of them.
Now comes the fun part. Let's say the set is sewn. But the threads remained. And they won’t disappear anywhere; they don’t even need to be reweighed or rewinded.
We simply determine the number using the “live” color map and write it if it has not been written. And if this is our selection, then we write that it is a selection.
I use not only DMS, but also any other GOOD threads. How do I determine whether they are good? I arrange a test drive: for shedding, appearance, silkiness, twist, lack of thickening. If they suit me, welcome to my collection!
These threads - leftovers and selections on such "circles" - are stored by numbers, so they are very easy to search for.
And so that all this miracle does not fall apart, we put the mugs on the bobbin ring. And in a plastic ice cream tray. The children ate about 50 of these trays, so there are even plenty of them!
Recruits are stored separately, DMS - separately, Anchor - separately, Fujiko - separately, DIM - separately.
All the rest (Belka, Gamma, St. Petersburg, and unidentified) go to the selections.
In order not to get confused in the huge number of threads, they are stored in plastic trays by numbers: 100-299, 300-399, 400-499, 500-599, 600-699, 700-799, 800-899, 900-999, 3000- 3099, 3300-3699, 3700-3799, 3800-3899.
Twelve trays for already cut threads, 12 trays for whole skeins of DMS.
Going through 100 numbers is still easier than digging through the entire mass of threads that are available.
When is a new embroidery planned?
, first of all, we look: are there any already cut threads of the same number, and already put on the organizer. If there is one, we simply paste a small price tag and draw the desired icon on it.
I haven’t even changed the icon lately, because... I sew using printed re-sets, even if I have my own set. And during redialing, the icon can easily be replaced with a familiar one.
So, for example, black 310 is a completely filled-in square. And so on.
Of course I have and threads unwound into bobbins
. All the wool has been unwound, a lot of VHI has been unwound.
I wound threads on the roads, a kind of therapy, I didn’t spend any special time. But this turned out to be not very convenient for me. Cardboard organizers turned out to be more mobile.
I put all the threads I buy into an Excel file.
Thank you Natasha_006 for creating the table. Very convenient classification of threads.
I rebuilt this sign for myself based on real and virtual projects.
Let's say there are the following columns: full availability, Parking lot icon, seasonal houses from DOME, a couple of GCs, total consumption. We sum everything up and get how many threads need to be purchased.
There are all the processes that are already available and running. And you can already determine which thread numbers I use most often. I will use threads that are used less frequently in decorative projects and in satin stitch embroidery, where I choose the color myself.
*PartizAnka*
But you can download a pdf with all VHI numbers (numbers from the official website)
*Tusya*
Well, I am gradually switching to storing threads in a binder, in the pockets of transparent files. Over time, I will make such storage facilities for all the threads.
I rewound my threads onto bobbins and sorted them by numbers, but for me there was nothing simpler than the “pocket by pocket” method.
You flip through the files with threads in the folder, threads by numbers, and you can immediately see the number you need. I’m not much of a systematizer, I’m all too busy.
But the only thing I do right away is I enter the numbers of purchased threads into the computer
. I think this is a very convenient moment. Some will find it convenient to do this in Word, others in Excel. I work more in special. book layout program and, naturally, created the file there.
Since I mainly embroider in Gamma and I transfer VHI threads to Gammaaccording to a special table, then my file was created according to this principle - the column is the VHI number - opposite (according to the translation) the Gamma number - opposite the Ariadne thread (if there is one, there are very few of them).
And, in addition, separate general lists of thread numbers by company. As soon as I buy another skein, I immediately put it in the table. As soon as it ends, I open the file and delete the number.
What does this table tell me? When I start the next job, I open the file on the computer and look at the numbers to see what I have in stock and what threads I need to buy. This is much faster than rummaging through boxes, bags, and other storage facilities.
*master*
It turns out that there are physicists and lyricists in storing threads. Lyricists - threads on boxes, and physicists - on computers. But seriously - thank you very much for the idea with the computer - I’ll start systematizing it right now.
