Beautiful ruffles with your own hands. How to cut and sew frills, ruffles, flounces. The donut method of constructing a shuttlecock

Hello, dear readers of the blog site!

Do you want to add femininity, romance, playfulness, and seductiveness to your skirts, dresses or blouses? Make them flounces, frills or ruffles. Just not on all of them, only on some. Don't let it be too much!

Flounces, frills or ruffles are made on models made of thin and medium soft fabrics, so when moving and from the slightest breath of breeze they sway in playful waves as if alive.

Very often, simple sewing lovers confuse flounces, frills, and ruffles with each other.

Frills can be located on products - horizontally, vertically, along yoke lines, along structural seams, etc.

2. The shape of the cut detail (see the cut section below in the article).

Cut the frills.

If necessary, you can cut out the frill yourself.

The cut out part of the frill can have the shape of a rectangle, triangle, trapezoid.

At the same time, short, transverse (1 or 2) and lower longitudinal sections of frills do not always have an even, straight cut line. It can also be curved, and in a wide variety of ways (depending on the desire of the “creator” of the frill and the characteristics of the model). For example, like this.

Most often, the frill pattern is laid out on the fabric along the bias thread, at an angle of 45⁰ to the warp thread, sometimes along the transverse thread.

Frill width.

The width of the frill depends on the style of the model and the properties of the fabric from which the frill is made and can be from 1.5 to 30 cm. To this you also need to add 1.5 - 2 cm for the seams along the upper and lower edges.

Frill length.

The length of the frill cut detail determines how the finished frill will look. The longer the cut detail of the frill, the more tightly gathered its upper cut will be, which means the frill will look more magnificent on the finished product.

For a not very fluffy frill, its upper cut should be 1.5 times longer than the stitching line.

For a normal, good fluffiness of the frill, the upper cut of the frill should be 2 times longer than the stitching line.

Well, for thin, easily draped fabrics, you can take three lengths of the stitching line.

Regardless of the length of the future detail of the frill cut, we add from 0.5 to 1.5 cm (depending on the properties of the fabric and the characteristics of the model) to the seam allowances on the side of each short transverse section.

Of course, it’s best when the frill is one-piece. It looks better and there is less fuss with its processing. Therefore, when laying out the cut details, do not forget about frills, especially long and wide ones.

Well, when there is not enough fabric for one single piece of frill, you will have to make it up from several, separately cut.

A finished frill, consisting of several separate parts, on some models simply must look like a single whole. And then, the separately cut details of the frill, on some models (optional, depending on the situation) should be ideally combined with each other with patterns of cells, lines, directions of floral patterns, etc.

On other models, different directions of the pattern on several parts of one frill can become an additional decorative effect. In this case, you need to carefully monitor the symmetry of the arrangement of the pattern of such parts. For example, like this.

Don't forget about seam allowances on these pieces! They must be present on the cutting details, but they are not involved in matching the pattern. Only the main part, without allowances, of the cut parts.

For frills that will be laid in pleats, pleats and corrugations, the pattern pieces are laid out along the grain or cross thread.

The length of the cutting details for frills that will be folded into pleats, pleats or corrugated folds depends on the type, and therefore the depth of the folds that will be made on the frill (needs to be calculated).

Sew the frill.

When a one-piece frill cut piece needs to be “turned” into a ring, short, cross-sections of one full-cut frill cut piece are joined with a ground stitch.

And when a whole, large frill needs to be made up of separately cut parts, the sections of these parts are also connected with a stitch seam.

Seam allowances for such joints are left from 0.5 to 0.7 cm, depending on the fraying of the sections.

And they are sewn together with a seam.

Of course, it will be best if the seam allowance cuts, no matter how many there are, are treated to prevent fraying. Frills are loose details, or almost free. Their movements are almost unrestricted, and it is not at all good if protruding threads are visible from under the flying frills and from the seams.

A high-quality product is considered to have a frill that is evenly gathered along its entire length. There are two ways to achieve this result.

First. Having gathered the top edge of the frill to the length of the stitching line, use your hands to evenly distribute the resulting folds.

And after that, using pins and a hand basting stitch, we begin to attach the top edge of the frill to the main product.

Second way. We lay stitch lines on both sides, along the upper edge of the frill, two hand stitches with straight stitches.

We pin the frill to the main part. First the edges, then the middle, then the middle of two sagging segments, again the middle, newly formed, but in four smaller segments, etc.

And when the frill is securely and evenly attached to the main part, all that remains is to pull the ends of the laid hand stitches and secure the assembly to the product with pins and a hand basting stitch.

This is the article I have today!

Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

How to cut and sew frills, ruffles, flounces

Frills: a) gathered; b) pleated

Frills are strips of material of varying widths, gathered on one side and stitched to the product on the same side. Frills are cut in a straight line. The strip of fabric should be one and a half times longer than the finished frill. The thinner and softer the fabric, the tighter it should be gathered and the longer the cut strip.
The frill can be pleated. In this case, the strip of fabric should be three times longer than the finished assembly.

Ruffles: a) simple ruffle; b) shaped ruffle

Ruffles are strips of material gathered in the middle. For more uniform sizing, lay 2-3 parallel lines. They are sewn onto the part from above. They can be made from the material of the product or from finishing materials. The ruffles are sewn on by machine between the gather lines.

Shuttlecock

The flounces are cut out in straight stripes along a bias thread or from fabric cut in the shape of a circle (allows you to avoid unnecessary seams). The smaller the inner circle, the more magnificent the shuttlecock. The stitched side can be additionally assembled with frequent folds.

Processing of slices. Cuts of frills, ruffles, flounces can be processed in various ways depending on the material.
When processing cuts on a machine with a zigzag stitch, the cut of the part is folded to the wrong side of the product by 0.5-0.7 cm and stitched on the side of the folded cut with a seam 0.1-0.2 cm wide; the folded edge near the stitching is trimmed. On fabrics that are easily stretched and skewed, the cut of the part is pre-basted (to sweep = fold the edge of the part and secure in this state with running stitches for sewing by machine or hemming by hand) or ironed, in this case the stitching can be done from the front side.
When processing straight seams into a hem, the cut of the part is folded to the wrong side by 0.3-0.5 cm and stitched from the side of the folded edge at a distance of 0.1 cm from the fold. The folded edge near the line is cut off, the edge of the part is folded to the wrong side by 0.15-0.2 cm and stitched with a second line from the side of the folded edge along the first line.
Sections of frills, ruffles, flounces can be processed with an edging seam. Lace can be sewn along their edge using a machine with a zigzag stitch. The lace is applied to the cut of the part from the front side, overlapping the cut by 0.5-0.7 cm, and stitched with a seam 0.2 cm wide. The cut of the part from the wrong side is trimmed near the line.
The shuttlecock can be treated with a lining. For lining, use the same or lighter fabric, or fabric in a contrasting color. The lining will completely cover the raw edges and give the product a finished look.

To obtain uniform gathers, two or three parallel lines are laid on the parts.
When making frills with soft, unironed folds, the cut of the part is folded along the notches, forming folds, and stitched so that the stitching when connecting the frill to the main part is not visible from the front side.
For a ruffle with soft, unironed folds, a strip of fabric is folded along the markings and secured with a stitch in the middle of the part.
To get a ruffle with a figured edge, the gather stitch is laid along a zigzag line. The distance between the zigzag vertices is set in accordance with the model.
Internal (sewn to the main parts) sections of frills and flounces can be overcast or edged.

Fig.1. Connection of frills, flounces located along the edges of the parts:
a - waste or adjustment seam;
b - overcast seam;
How to sew a frill, flounce

The location of frills, flounces, ruffles on the main parts of the product is varied: they can be along the edges of parts, along the seams of the main parts, or on the surface of the whole part. Depending on their location, type of material and processing, several methods of connecting frills and flounces to the main parts of the product can be used.
Frills and flounces located at the edges of the parts can be connected to the main part with a stitch, stitching, overcast or edging seam. When joining with a stitched or stitched seam (Fig. 1,a), the frill or flounce is placed on the front side of the main part, basted and stitched, or stitched without basting. The stitch is laid from the side of the frill or flounce, leveling the assemblies and matching the sections of the parts. The seam width is 1-1.25 cm. The seam is overcast. The stitching seam of the frill or flounce is ironed towards the main part. The seam can be stitched at a distance of 1-2 mm from the stitching seam.
If an elastic band (elastic band) is provided at the junction of the frill with the main part, then the width of the seam for attaching the frill or flounce is increased to 1.5-2 cm and a second one is laid at a distance of 0.8-1 cm from the first line.

When joining with a facing seam (Fig. 1.6), the frill or flounce is first sewn to the lower part with a seam 5 mm wide, and then the edge is ground with the upper part along the stitching line of the frill and or flounce, aligning the cuts; seam width 5 mm. The parts are turned out and straightened. The seam can be stitched at a distance of 1-2 mm from the frill connection line.

When connecting a frill or flounce with an edge seam (Fig. 1, c), they are basted to the cut of the part and the cut is processed with an edge seam in the same way as a frill cut.
c - edge seam
Connection of frills, flounces with the whole part:
a - grinding;
b - grinding with processed sections;
c - with hemming of the stitched cut

The frill or flounce, located in the seam of the connection of the parts, is applied with the wrong side to the front side of the main part and stitched, aligning the cuts. When connecting parts with a stitch seam, the main part with a frill is folded with another main part with the right sides inward and ground along the stitching line of the frill, aligning the cuts (Fig. 2, a).
When joining parts with an overlay seam, the cut of the main part without a frill is folded, placed on a part with a frill or flounce, and adjusted so that the stitching line for the frill or flounce is not visible from the front side.
Double frills (Fig. 2.6) or flounces (extending one from under the other) are pre-folded, aligning the cuts, and then stitched to the main part.

When connecting a frill or flounce to a whole part, mark the location of the frill or flounce on the main part. If the frills are not wide and vertically located, then they are usually sewn into the main part (Fig. 3, a). When cutting the main part, give a seam allowance for stitching each frill of 0.8-1 cm. The frill is placed on the front side of the main part with a cut to the intended line, right side up and stitched with a seam 4-5 mm wide; The main part is bent, going around the cut of the frill, and on the wrong side, a second line is laid along the stitching line of the frill. The main part is straightened. The stitching seam for the frill to ensure stability of the frill can be stitched on the front side at a distance of 1-2 mm from the assembly joining line.
If the frill or flounce does not have gathers or the gathers are insignificant (Fig. 3, b), then the frill or flounce with processed sections is basted and stitched with a seam 7-8 mm wide.
If the frill or flounce has significant gathers, then the cut is first folded and assembled on the assembly (Fig. 3, c), and then applied to the front side of the part and adjusted along the line that secures the gathers.

Dresses with frills have always been popular and in demand. Graceful ruffles add femininity and romance to the models. By varying different accessories, you can choose an outfit with ruffles both for a walk in the park and for an official reception. We will tell you in this article how patterns for dresses with ruffles are made and what features need to be taken into account when choosing the type of ruffles.

Frills are an interesting detail, but require a careful approach when choosing a specific solution.

Let's look at how you can decorate a dress with ruffles:

ruffles on the shoulders - dresses of this cut allow you to demonstrate the beauty of a woman’s shoulders. An excellent solution for going to the cinema or a disco;

ruffles on the chest are an ideal choice for women with small breasts. The model is almost universal in purpose;

frills along the neckline are a spectacular solution that creates a festive look. They look especially elegant on dresses with an asymmetrical cut;

flounces on the sleeves are a never-out-of-fashion solution. Such models are extremely popular all over the world;

frill at the waist - a rather complex cut that creates unusual options;

flounces at the back add piquancy and uniqueness to the look. Look great on ladies with large hips;

flounces on the skirt - there are several options for placing frills at different heights. They all make dresses more magnificent and interesting. Dresses with frills on the skirt are often made for festive events and dances. This type of clothing is also suitable for everyday wear;

vertical flounces – a model with such ruffles is perfect for women with small breasts;

frills along the entire length of the dress are a stylish solution that adds femininity and sophistication.

Knitted dress with vertical ruffles

Straight silhouette dress, no darts, dropped sleeves, semicircular neckline. The length of the dress is 5-6 cm above the knees, but you can change it as you wish.

For sewing dresses need to prepare:

knitted fabric, soft and well draped - 1.2-1.3 m;
threads, sewing accessories.

Description

For cutting, you can use a ready-made pattern or make it yourself. To do this, on the main pattern we close the chest darts on the back and front; we do not make darts on the waist. At the side seams we add 1.5-2.0 cm for a loose fit.

Extend the shoulder line by 4-5 cm, draw a new armhole line.

In addition to the back and front parts, we need to cut out:

ruffles - three stripes 4 cm by 0.8-0.9 m;
belt – strip 9 cm by 1.5 m;
oblique facings of the neck - three strips 2.5 cm wide. The length of two should be equal to the length of the roll-out, the length of the third should be equal to the length of the roll-out.

First of all, we will process the ruffle sections with an overlocker. To do this, set the necessary modes.

We process both cuts.

To obtain uniform gathers on the ruffles, we install a special foot on the machine.

Set the required stitch parameters.

We carry out the line, having received the necessary gathers.

We place the ruffles on the shelf and secure them with pins.

On the machine we set the required straight stitch parameters.

Since ruffles are quite a voluminous detail, it is advisable to use a special foot for thick fabrics to sew them on.

We attach ruffles.

We overlock the seams on the shoulders and sides.

We use bias tape to trim the armholes and neckline.

On the front side we perform decorative stitching along the armholes and neckline.

We process the bottom of the dress with an overlocker, turn it in 15-20 mm, and sew it on a machine.

We fold the blank for the belt in half, stitch it on three sides, turn it inside out, and iron it. We sew up the remaining open area with a hand-blind stitch, tucking the edges inward.

The ruffled dress is ready!

Dress with flounces: video master class

Dress with frills on the shoulders

For sewing dresses need to prepare:

stretch – satin – 1.1-1.2 m;
bias silk binding for processing flounce cuts - 3 m;
threads to match the color of the fabric, sewing tools.

Description

For cutting, a straight dress pattern is used. We transfer the chest darts into the side seams.

We mark the patterns on the fabric and cut out the shelf, the back, and four blanks for the flounces.

We sew darts on the back and front parts. Considering the structure of the fabric, it is advisable to use a knitting needle in this work.

We sew the side seams and process the cuts using an overlocker.

We make seams on the shoulders and overlock the cuts.

We apply bias tape to the front side of the flounce along the outer contour. Secure with pins.

We sew the binding.

We process the inner edge of the shuttlecock with an overlocker.

We sew the flounces one by one with a basting stitch and attach them. We sew the cuts.

We turn away the flounce and perform a decorative stitch.

We repeat the operation for the second sleeve.

To process the neckline and armhole, we cut out bias tape from the main fabric with a width of 25 mm. We process the sections of the armholes and neckline with this trim.

We check the length of the dress and process the bottom edge with an overlocker.

We make a hem of 3.0-3.5 cm and stitch.

The dress is ready!

Dress with frills made of chiffon: MK video

Dress with ruffle neckline

To sew a dress you need:

thin cotton fabric - with a width of 1.2-1.4 m you need 1.1-1.2 m;
lining fabric – satin;
zipper 30-35 cm long;

Description

Lining

The basic dress pattern is used as a basis. All constructions are made for a dress size 46. On the back pattern, draw a horizontal line through the lower point of the armhole. We model the front according to the figure below.

The finished patterns for the front and back parts should look as shown in the following photo.

Since the lining is made without darts, it is better to cut along the bias thread to ensure a better fit to the figure.

We cut out the lining parts, grind them down, and process the cuts with an overlocker. We process the upper sections with bias tape. We make two folds along the bottom edge and stitch.

Dress

Let's start modeling the front pattern by transferring the chest dart to the side seam. Then we will draw the desired rollout shape. On the back pattern we draw a roll-out line.

For a decorative ruffle, cut out a strip 5 x 110 cm.

We sew a zipper into the side seam of the dress and sew the side seams. We process the seam allowances with an overlocker. We process the armholes and roll-out with bias tape.

We process the ruffle sections with an overlocker. We gather the part to the required length and sew it to the neck.

We sew around the bottom edge of the dress, turn it under and stitch it.

Dress with flounce at the bottom

For making a dress need to prepare:

textile;
interlining;
threads to match the fabric, sewing accessories.

Description

For modeling we use the basic pattern of a dress and a straight sleeve.

In the finished pattern, shorten the shoulder line and draw a new armhole line.

Then we widen and deepen the neckline.

We shorten the back and front patterns to the required length, expanding them downwards. In this case, we first determine the length of the shuttlecock.

We mark and cut out all the details.

In addition to the main parts, we need to cut out the hem facings for the front and back neckline, 4-5 cm wide. To do this, fold the fabric in half and apply the folded front and back part to the fold line.

In this case, it is important that the directions of the grain threads on the fabric and parts coincide.

We strengthen the facings with non-woven fabric.

We sew in the chest darts, turn them up and iron them. We process the edges of the side seam allowances of the front and back with an overlocker.

We sew the shoulder seams and process the cuts with an overlocker. We process the lower edges of the sleeves with an overlocker.

We sew the sleeves into the armhole and sew over the edges of the allowances. We fold the lower edges of the sleeves twice and stitch them. Instead of machine stitching, you can sew a blind seam by hand.

We make a side and sleeve seam using a common pass.

Stitch the neck facing along one side, forming an open ring. We process the outer edges of the facing with an overlocker, then we grind the facing into a ring.

We attach the facing to the neck rollout.

At the shoulder seam areas we trim the allowances, removing excess fabric thickness. In the remaining areas of stitching, we make notches on the facing allowances. At the same time, we do not make notches on the neck allowances.

We unscrew the facing, turn the seam allowance onto it and sew. The stitching should extend from the stitching seam at a distance of 2-3 mm.

We fold the facing onto the wrong side of the dress with a small piping and iron it.

Sew by hand with a hidden seam.

We assemble the shuttlecock part into a ring and mark its center. On both sides of the center we sew a line with a wide step along the edge of the part. We gather the shuttlecock, pulling the stitching threads.

In this case, the length of one part of the shuttlecock should be equal to the length of the lower cut of the back, the length of the second part of the shuttlecock should be equal to the length of the lower cut of the shelf.

We distribute the folds of the gathers evenly. We baste the frill onto the lower sections of the dress, then attach the flounce and overlay the sections.

The ruffles of the shuttlecock should not be ironed to avoid damage.

We make a double hem along the bottom edge and stitch. If desired, the bottom edge can be hemmed by hand using a blind stitch. In the areas of seam hems, it is advisable to cut off the seam allowances to reduce the thickness of the fabric.

Iron the finished dress.

For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle

We sew flounces. Lesson 5 - ruffles and frills.

Good afternoon, today we will take a little break from lessons on modeling shuttlecocks. In this article I will tell and show everything I know about ruffles and frills, how they are designed and how they are sewn on. We have already sewn something with ruffles - remember these

Let me first tell you what ruffles are, then I will show in photographs beautiful models of clothing for children and adults decorated with ruffles. And then we will start sewing and sewing on the ruffles and frills. And after this article you will be able to sew one like this. Or topic with

So, this is what ruffles look like(photo below): this is a strip of fabric gathered along the middle seam. That is, the assembly seam runs in the middle. The ruffle is also attached to the product with a middle seam. You and I will need to sew a beautiful dress.

This is what frills look like (photo below) - these are strips of fabric, gathered only on one side, and on the same side they are sewn to the product. The strip of fabric for the frill (and for the ruffle too) should be at least 1.5 times longer than the finished frill (but we will dwell in more detail on the proportions and lengths).

Now let's take a little look at the models of clothes decorated with ruffles and get filled with ideas for your future clothes, sewn with your own hands.

Let's start with children's dresses and tunics:

Thanks to the ruffles, the simplest cut children's dress can become simply VERY elegant.

Ruffles on clothes for newborns look very touching.

Pink ruffles on pink dresses for pink girls are the very embodiment of tenderness.

And here is an example of ruffles on elegant dresses for girls. They can be used to decorate straps. Lush tulle ruffles can be placed along the edge of the neckline and even decorated with fabric roses.

Ruffles can also be sewn in frequent rows over the entire surface of the dress. By the way, in fabric stores you can find fabric with strips of ruffles and frills already sewn onto it.

Ruffles also look good on older girls. Only the color of the fabric for models with ruffles is better to choose a calmer one - gray, black, brown, white.

Well, now let's figure out how to properly sew and attach ruffles and frills.

WE MAKE RUCHES AND FRILLS.

How long should the strip be for ruffles and frills?

That is, to find out how long to cut a strip of fabric for a ruffle, we need to measure the length of the line to which the ruffle will be sewn. We take a centimeter and measure it directly on the product. And then we multiply the resulting figure by 1.5 (or simply add another half of this number to the number). For example, our ruffle sewing line is 80 cm, which means the ruffle strip should be equal to 80 + 40 (half of eighty) = 120 cm.

Strips of fabric for ruffles and frills are cut in a straight line.

We cut out a strip for the ruffle 120 cm long, and then gather it until it is equal to 80 cm - i.e. the length of the finished, already assembled ruffle should coincide with the length of its sewing line.

But you also need to know that the thinner and softer the fabric, the tighter the gathering on the ruffle should be so that it holds its shape. This means that the longer the strip of fabric for such a ruffle should be. It turns out that if we make ruffles from soft fabric, we need to multiply the length of the sewing line not 1.5 times, but 2 times or maybe more. I always cut off a strip with a margin, then when you start assembling, as you go, it becomes clear what density of assembly looks better.

And if we plan to make a pleated frill, then the strip of fabric should be 3 times longer than the sewing line of the frill.

Should the edges of the ruffle be processed?

First, immediately decide whether you will process the edges of our ruffle - if the fabric does not fray, then the edges can be left as is - knit ruffles are usually left simply unprocessed, thin satin and chintz, shiny satin, silk, organza are better treated. But it all depends on the model you are sewing. I’ll tell you more, even if the fabric frays, you can also leave it as is (nowadays such shaggy ruffles are often found on blouses and tops - it’s fashionable) if from time to time there are extra shaggy hairs that appear along the edge of the ruffle, I simply cut them off with scissors I continue to use the clothes. To reduce the flowability of such fabrics, the cut of the strips of fabric can be done with zigzag scissors or cut not in a straight line, but on an oblique.

Just pay attention in stores to how the ruffles on the dresses, tops and tunics sold there are processed - you will discover a lot of new things. It turns out that many clothing manufacturers don’t bother processing cuts at all.

If you decide to process the ruffle cut.

The first method is a zigzag stitch.

We bend the cut to the wrong side by 5-7 mm and attach it to the wrong side with a zigzag seam (the width of the zigzag seam is 2-3 mm (but it’s okay if it’s different).

Method two - with a regular line

We bend the cut to the wrong side (the width of the bend is 3-5 mm). You can iron the bend comfortably. Then we put it under the machine’s foot, slowly, and sew with a regular stitch. We lay the line at a distance of 1-2 mm from the fold line. After this line, carefully trim the excess edge of the fold with scissors as close to the seam as possible. And again (the second time) we bend such a stitched edge to the wrong side by 2-3 mm and once again lay a line along this bend (directly along the first line). It turns out very neat and durable - for centuries.

How to make a gather on a ruffle

We take a strip of fabric, set the widest seam stitch on the machine (the larger the better), and use this wide stitch to sew a line evenly in the middle of the strip.

To ensure that the seam goes exactly in the middle of the ruffle, you can first fold the ruffle in half along its entire length and lightly smooth the fold line with an iron (like an arrow on trousers). Then we fold the strip back, and in the center we have a mark from the fold. And this fold line will be our visible guideline along which we will drive our line.

So we ran this very wide stitch line, took it out from under the machine, and cut the threads. And now, to get an assembly, all you need to do is simply pull the threads and the ruffle itself will begin to wrinkle evenly along its entire length. We need to tighten the threads until we get the length of the ruffle we need (that is, the length equal to the sewing line of the ruffle on the product).

To make the frill gather more evenly, it is sometimes recommended to make not one central seam, but two seams in the center, one next to the other. But I usually gather one center seam at a time. And I adjust the uniformity of the assembly manually.

How to make a gather on a frill.

Exactly the same as on the ruffle - only we lay a large stitch line not in the center of the strip, but along its edge.

How to sew ruffles to a product

I first sew the ruffles by hand using large rough stitches evenly to the planned sewing line, taking my time, constantly bending the edges of the ruffle and checking whether I have strayed from the intended line. If the line does not go along the edge of the product, but directly along the canvas, then first it is better to draw this very sewing line on the canvas with a pencil or chalk.

When the ruffles are sewn by hand, I put it all under the machine foot and stitch in the center, sewing the ruffle to the product. And then I pull out the rough thread (the one with which I basted the ruffle by hand).

How to sew a frill to a product

Happy sewing.

Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site "".

Frills: a) gathered; b) pleated

To obtain uniform gathers, two or three parallel lines are laid on the parts.
When making frills with soft, unironed folds, the cut of the part is folded along the notches, forming folds, and stitched so that the stitching when connecting the frill to the main part is not visible from the front side.
For a ruffle with soft, unironed folds, a strip of fabric is folded along the markings and secured with a stitch in the middle of the part.
To get a ruffle with a figured edge, the gather stitch is laid along a zigzag line. The distance between the zigzag vertices is set in accordance with the model.
Internal (sewn to the main parts) sections of frills and flounces can be overcast or edged.

Fig.1. Connection of frills, flounces located along the edges of the parts:
a - waste or adjustment seam;
b - overcast seam;
How to sew a frill, flounce