Technological sequence of skirt. Manufacturing a female skirt of a straight silhouette of a classic style. Check the width of the product in the waist area, hollow, by pounding or poding side seams. Specify the magnitude and direction of the pulp. Clarify D.

Making skirt-sun.
Master class with step-by-step photos

Description:The technology program manufacturing skirt is provided in 6 or in grade 7. The master Class It follows from many years of experience as a teacher of technology, tested on not one generation of children. Manufacturing operations are very simple and understandable to any novice dressmaker. Nevertheless, knowledge is needed:
1. Terminology of manufacturing sewing products. (There are technology in textbooks, on the Internet)
2. Skills of work on the sewing machine
3. Safety rules for manual, iron, machine work.
The material may be useful to teachers of technology, students, with independent work on the project, for those who want to sew a fashionable skirt for those who do their own hands.
Purpose: Technology lesson, project work, self-sewing skirt.
Purpose: Learn competently and in accordance with the technological requirements of sewing a conical skirt.
Tasks:
- Sew skirt.
- Improve the skills of working with cloth, on the sewing machine
- Examine the technology of making a conical skirt.
- to educate accuracy in work, preferably, striving for high-quality work.
Tools and materials:
1. Hand tools and fixtures:
- Hela for hand work
- Melok Portnovsky
-Tape measure
- Patnogo-dress.
- Balavka English
- Asshole
-Lineca
-Thimble

Master class move:

1. We start working with removing the measure for sewing a conical skirt. You will need only 2 measurements:
Waist girth - from. For my skirt from \u003d 68 cm.
Product length - di for my skirt Art \u003d 40 cm.
There should be such a pattern (one of the layout options, taken from the Internet)

We fold the results and multiply on 2:
R + Di + 10 cm. (on bending and shrink, if tissue x / b or linen, if synthetic, 5 cm).
(11 + 40 + 10) x 2 \u003d 61x2 \u003d 122 cm. We buy 1m 20cm
3. Preparation of fabric to clarity:
Decate: We wash the fabric in hot water (the temperature of the water is so. In which you will wash the finished product), we are dried, we separate.
We check whether there are any defects, celebrate chalk from the wrong side.
4. Cutting skirts:
Fabric fold twice on the equity thread (the share thread passes along the edge)
Postpone from one of the corners with a radius (lay down in such a way that the details were 1 fold)
To conduct an arc of this radius using a centimeter tape, noting several points at a distance equal to the radius, connect the point.
Conduct an arc from the same vertex equal to the sum of the radius and the length of the skirt, using a centimeter tape.
Add up the bottom of the part 2-3 cm on the bending and the erection.
In the same way to build a second skirt detail. (Do not forget to add to the Podga!)
Add 1 cm over the upper cut.
Product details on the outlined lines.
Clean the skirt details.

Relying on the technical figure, technical description and selected textile materials, as well as methods of processing the main nodes, compiled a technological sequence of processing the model of the women's skirt. Technological sequence Processing is presented in Table 2.

Table 2 - Technological sequence of skirt manufacture

Output

According to the task of testing, a female skirt model was developed, which meets modern modes of fashion. A technical drawing is performed with the exact black and white graphic playback of the main lines. The technical description corresponds to the structural lines and technological seams.

The choice of materials, taking into account all the requirements for the product and materials that make up the package for the women's skirt designed for the spring-autumn socks period. As the main material is offered - costume half-walled fabric. The lining material is selected in the color of the main material. A thermochelave gasket material with an adhesive point was used as a plugging material, which allows to keep the shape of the skirt belt during operation. In confection map, samples of materials that make up the package are presented.

Technological processing of the main nodes of the skirt reflects the latest developments in the field of technology, based on the technical figure, the technical description of the technological sequence of processing the model of the women's skirt is compiled.

Bibliography

1. Materials Science in the production of light industry products / Buzov B.A., Alymeminova N.D. Tutorial for stud. Higher. studies. establishments. - M.: Publishing Center "Academy", 2004. -448 p.

2. Playing machine and automated clothing technology / P.P. Coquin. - Smolensk, 2003. - 232 p.

3. Classification and assortment of materials used for the manufacture of clothing. Definition of the nomenclature of their quality indicators: method. decree. to lab. work / Kazan. State tehnol. University, in-t technologies of light prom and fashion and design; Cost. L.G. Hisamieva, E.R. Heirullina. - Kazan: Publishing House, 2005. - 19 p.

4. Technology of sewing products. / Savostitsky A.V., Melikov E.H. Tutorial - 2nd ed. Pererab. and add., - M.: Easy and Food Industry, 1982. - 440 p.

5. Illustrated manual on technology easy clothing / A.T. Trukhanov. - M.: Higher School, 2000. - 176c.

6. Basics of sewing production technology / A.T. Trukhanov. - M.: Higher School, 2001. - 336 p.

7. Tailoring of products by individual orders / Textbook M.: Irpo: Edit. Center "Academy", 2002. - 528 p.

The technological process of manufacturing sewing products is the processing and assembly of parts and nodes in a specific sequence. Under the technological sequence of processing of products it is understood as a list of technologically indivisible operations, which correspond to the procedure for performing them in the manufacture of parts and components of the product with an indication of the specialty, used equipment, devices, and specifications.

1. Preparation of fabric to clarity (for any product). Some fabrics in the process of wet-thermal processing (ironing), washing suspended shrinkage. To avoid it, the fabric is needed before decaying (conducting wet-thermal processing).

-the determination of the facial face (tcanya is usually folded in the roll half. Woolen fabrics are stacked by the front side inside, and silk - outwards. On the edge of the tissue, the punctures are directed with the wrong side of the fabric. All weaving defects are usually bred on the wrong side of the fabric

-bid cloth for defects(On the front surface of the fabric should not be: foreign fibers, short thickens of the threads, the lack of one or more yarns of the base or threads of the duck, windy. There should be no defects in the color of the tissue. All detected defects Mix with soap or chalk on the wrong side of the tissue. Note on them with string.

-The determination of the direction of the share thread(The filament of the base is directed along the edge of the fabric. When laying the patterns, try to avoid deviation from the direction of the base of the base.

-The determination of the direction of drawing(If the pattern is directed in one direction, then lay out the patterns and paint the product details in one direction.

If the fabric is smooth, does not have one-sided pattern, the details of the patterns can be laid out in different directions, but the direction of the bases is necessarily taken into account.

On the tissues in the large peas of the middle of the transfer and the middle of the back should pass through the center of pea.

On the tissues with a large pattern of patterns, lay out so that the middle of the shelf and the back coincides with the middle of the picture. Pay attention to his symmetry!

On the tissues into a cage or strip, determine, symmetrical cells or stripes or asymmetrical. If you are asymmetrical, the patterns lay out in one direction.

On the tissues in a strip of patterns, lay out so that the middle of the shelf and the backrest coincides with the middle of the central strip!

On small parts (valves, etc.) strips must match stripes on the main details.

Strips should be placed symmetrically at the ends of the collar, lapels.

2. Laying patterns on fabrics, cutting

1. Fabric folded twice, face inside, align the edges. So that the fabric is not shifted with the outlet, it is possible inside the outlet of the parts of the parts by its pins.

2. First decompose large details on the tissue (shelf, back, sleeves), then small parts (cuffs, collars, belt, etc.). Having achieve economical layout of the patterns on the fabric.

3. To the folding of the fabric, place the details that are given on the pattern in half the size. After cutting, you have a whole detail

4. First circle long lines, then short and oval. Lines must be smooth. You can use rules and patterns to accurately and smoothly circle lines.

5. Smooth, slippery fabrics (silk, chiffon, etc.) may occur when driving and stripping. Be sure to scalulate them with pins.

6. After driving the contour of the parts, take the location of the lines of the middle of the part on the fabric, the midfield lines, the location of the first loop, pockets, extipe, folds. After driving parts, notice the allowances for the seams

7. Customize the fabric strictly by allowances on the seams, holding a cut-off in your hand (thanks to this rule does not displace the layer of abandonable parts).

8. Do not forget that with loose tissues, the magnitude of the stacks on the seams should be increased!

Laying patterns of a straight skirt on fabric with directional pattern

Laying patterns of a straight skirt on the fabric width 140cm

b.
ezch seam and with seam on the rear cloth.

3. Preparation of the skirt to carry out fittings.

1. Locking control lines and copy stitches on symmetric parts or parties, through the lines of the middle of the front and rear panels, waist waist, hips.

2. Duplicate points of the slot, clashes, pave glue edges.

3. To fit and prevent dye, folds, reliefs.

4. To fit and prevent lateral and medium sections of the skirt.

5. Clean the bottom skirt.

6. Perform wet-thermal processing of the product

7. Duplicate and harvest the belt or the kiss tape.

4. Conducting fittings

1. Wear a product on the Customer's figure. To leaf or fasten the clasm. Specify the balance of the product on Figure together the skirt with the figure of the customer along the waist, honeycomb.

2. Check the width of the product in the waist area, hip, passing or poding side seams. Specify the magnitude and direction of the pulp. Specify the length of the slot.

3. Refine a line of damping belt, by pinching to half the belt skirt or a corsage tape. Specify the length of the skirt.

5. Making changes, clarification. On the scheduled chalk lines, direct stitches are laid. We have new lines of seams and interrupt or charge them to the other side of the details.

6. Treatment of extach. Outlights allow us to bring the shape of a clothing form to the shape of a person's figure. Start on the side lines ranging from the part of the part and ending in the end of the end of the outlet by 0.1 ml. From a mixture line. Folding on the middle of the item. Large of the fabric at the ends of the pulp.

7. Processing side sections of the skirt. Seams in skirts are treated with batch seams (sputum, tvuyzhka), configuration and lounge seams. Selection of seams depends on the model and from the type of fabric.

8. Processing Slice on average seam skirts

Duplication of points for the slot.

Right Slot Slot Light Slot Lock

Say separately each if the skirt is without lining, then the left allowance

medium slice and slot slices. Slots to adjust and snow by 1-1.2 cm.

Slow seam seams and slots.

Start the average slice and upper slots. Fixing Slot Power

Medium cuts above the slot sorts. 2nd finishing line.

Slot fogging on the left side.

9. East of the upper and lower sections of the skirt. The skirt is climbing on the seams, wrappers in half on the right face. Specify the upper cut or cut 1-1.5 cm with a viscosity. For damping the belt. Specify or cut down the lower sections of the skirts, they are scheduled for a lines for the cutting of lower cuts 3 cm. (Soap, and then straight stitches).

10. Handling clasp with zipper.

Treatment of secret zipper

11. Treatment of the upper cut of the belt skirt.

1. Duplication of the belt skirt

2. Treatment of the belt skirt

a - scraping the ends of the skirt belt;

b - belt processing

Tagging and subtraction of the processed belt to the upper cut Skirt

1 - middle of the front panel; The damped section of the subsidence is adjusted in the seam

2 - side seam; Subscribe a belt or a belt at a distance

3 - middle of the rear cloth 0.1-0.2 cm. From its fold (line 2).

12. Lower slice in the skirt treated with various types of edge seams. The most commonly used: suture violating (with open or closed cuts). Selection of seams depends on the model and from the type of fabric.

Features of the processing skirt on the lining

1. The cutting lining of the skirts is made according to themes of the top, with machining and freedom allowance, and also add space for side seam to the parts of the rear panel level at the slot level and below, for the subsequent subtraction of it to the cutting of the slot.

2. The rear panel of the skirt can be painted with a fold, since the lining material has a strong thread sliding due to the subtleties of the material. At the clasp level, the lining must be cut in the form of a droplet, the sections of which are made, are boosted by 0.5 cm. And dragged on 0.1 cm. From the adjacent edge. The edges of the droplets are muted over the lightning stitches. If the rear cloth lining is carved with a seam, then the lining can be pulled to the allowances of the clasp.

3. Side lining sections are treated with a racial seaman. Folding on the lining do not steps, but are laid in the folds in opposite sides of the casting.

4. Slices of lining feeding to the belt are made together with a slice of a belt. Over the side seams, the hangers are inserted when the lining is incremented, which are harvested from the lining or use ribbons with a width of 0.5 cm.

5. The lower cut of the skirt is treated with a seam additive with a closed slice.At the bottom, the lining should be shorter than the skirt by 2 - 3 cm.

6. If there is no slot and cuts on the skirt, leave cuts in the side seams (15-20 cm long) to ensure the freedom of step.

7. If there are slots or cuts on the model skirt, then the cuts on the lining must comply with them.

8. The easiest and comfortable view Processing, it is cut the arcooled fabric area to the height or incision. The edges of the cutout (the width of its 4 - 5 cm) wash, adjust to 0.5 cm on the wrong side and stop.There are more professional processing methods (see above the scheme).

Methods for processing lining over the slot, cut.

Treatment of lining above the cutting of the lining over the slot

Methods for processing lining over the slot

Direct skirt processing technological

Name of technologically indivisible operation

Type of work, specialty

Applicable equipment, tools, fixtures

Technical conditions and requirements for the operation

1.

Start falling on p / n and s / n skirts.

M.

GC.188 MD.

Start on the side lines ranging from the part of the part and ending in the end of the end of the outlet by 0.1 ml. From a mixture line.

2.

Shooting the ditch

W.

PGU-1-120 "Elegant" - ironing installation

Figured semicircular block

Folding on the middle of the item. Large of the fabric at the ends of the pulp.

3.

Surge middle sections and cuts Skirt slots

CM

Juki. Mo. – 6700 S. Series.

Cutting cuts are performed from the front side of the part. Threads at the edge of the slot to fill.

4.

Start the middle sections of the skirt

M.

GC.188 MD. - single-needle industrial sewing machine shuttle stitch

Details of the rear cloth fold faces. Inside, equalized sections fit along the entire seam. Start shh. 1-1.5 cm. Starting a line from the control sign, which determines the length of the clashes and ending with the defects of the Slice's root.

5.

WTO medium sections

W.

PGU-2-101EKO Industrial Console Ironing Installation

The steam generator of the bay 2,5lPS.05/ B.

Passages of medium slices in the field of clasp areas, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe slot area left detail Rear cloth without naval.

6.

Consolidation of Slot's allowance

M.

GC.188 MD. - single-needle industrial sewing machine shuttle stitch

Put the finishing line on the facial stor. s / n skirts at an angle to the middle suture of the back, fixing the screaming.

7.

Start Side Skirts Skirts

M.

GC.188 MD. - single-needle industrial sewing machine shuttle stitch

Cuts fold people. Inside, equalize cuts, combine the counter. signs on the lines of hips, fit

Sh.Sh. 1-1.5 cm. At a distance of 0.1 ml. from the blended seam.

8.

Side Side Skirts

CM

Juki.Mo. - 3900 Craffer Machine Complete with Table

The sections are rotten from the front panel on the width wider width.

9.

Shooting or running the side sections skirts

W.

Console Ironing Installation, Shoe

The steam generator of the bay 2,5l

In the upper part, they start using a semicircular pad, at the bottom on the straight block without naval, until a complete fit.

10.

Zipper

M.

GC.188 MD. - single-needle industrial sewing machine shuttle stitch

Racing under the right fold of jack to the cloves of lightning, under the left at a distance of 0.3-0.4 cm. From the fold. Drain into one reception. The stitch passes on the left rear cloth at a distance of 0.7 - 1 cm., On the right - 0.1-0.2 cm. From the seam allowance.

11.

Processing belt

M.

GC.188 MD. - single-needle industrial sewing machine shuttle stitch

Drain the ends of the belt sh .sh 0.5-0.7 cm. The end of the front belt is calculated along the lower cut S.SH 1 cm. For a length of 2.5 - 3 cm. The angles are carved, the belt ends are pulled, straighten, fit. Surminate the subsidence.

12.

Pull up the top belt to the skirt

M.

GC.188 MD. - single-needle industrial sewing machine shuttle stitch

The belt is folded with the skirt of persons. Inside, the sections and ends of the belt are equalized. Racing shh.sh 0.9-1.4 cm. Drain shh.sh 1-1.5 cm. The suture of the appointment is to sweat and knock on the belt.

13.

Shot down the lower subsidence

M.

GC.188 MD. - single-needle industrial sewing machine shuttle stitch

The damped slice of the subsidence is adjusted in the seam feeding the belt or at a distance of 01-0.2 ml. From the suture of the belt feeding, inserting the hangers over the side.

14.

Sawn up the lower sections of the skirt

CM

2-needle high-speed sewing machine (Overlock) Juki. Mo. – 6700 S. Series.

The rotation of the lower cut is performed from the front side of the product, starting and ending at the edge of the slot. To prevent and maintain on the outstanding line.

15.

Snake bottom sections skirts

R

Hand needle number 2, Polyester threads

Seclly firm stitches, threads in the color of the main material. Stitch length 2-3 in 1 cm.

16.

Saw on a loop on a belt skirt

CM

LBH.1790 - 2-thread semi-automatic for the manufacture of loops of various types

The loop to spend at a distance of 0.7 cm. From the upper edge of the belt, the corresponding butt diameter is + 0.2 ml. threads in the color of the main material.